Chevy Cobalt Drivers Door Rubbing Fender Fix

With the Chevy Cobalt 2005 – 2010 one common issue many of these cars have is the driver’s door mid to bottom area rubbing the front fender. This door to fender rubbing issue has happen to our 2006 Cobalt as well as many other Cobalt owners cars as well. The general fix seems to be, just take it to a body shop to adjust, or take it back to the dealer to fix. These places are totally fine to fix the issue, but will cost in my case $200 for something that can be very easily adjusted in your own drive way, taking about one hour of your time to do.

Tools That Will Be Needed:

10mm socket and or wrench

Floor jack

Small piece of wood or thick rag to put between floor jack and bottom of door

2 washers

Larger flat head screw driver

Torx socket bit

Now open your passenger or driver’s door (whichever door has the issue) and see the hinge bolts that connect the door hinge to the door (the easy bolts to access) Now put a floor jack under the door just snug so door stays in place, then loosen the two top bolts a few turns, then loosen and remove the two bottom door to hinge bolts, (only removing one bolt at a time) and put a washer in behind the hinge where it meets the door, then put the bolt back in, do not tighten. You do this for each door hinge lower bolts. By adding the washer behind the door hinge, it pushes the door slightly away from the fender at the bottom to middle area, creating more gap/space between the door and fender so no rubbing will occur. When both bolts have been done, tighten them to spec or just nice and snug.

The door now should not rub on fender when opening/closing, but will now not close perfect, it will slightly hit bottom of door latch. So must now using the torx bit, loosen the two large torx bolts located on the car body of inner door area. You will need to use a large screw driver and lift up on an angle to adjust the door striker plate a little higher so door lines up properly when closed. This may take a few tries to get it right. When the door closes with no resistance/rubbing and opens normally, you have it adjusted properly. Now just give the door latch a nice lube and your Chevy Cobalt is fixed and good to go.

 

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2011-2014 Mustang GT Weight Reduction Tips

Want some excellent 2011-2014 Mustang GT weight reduction tips that will help shed a few pounds off your Mustang GT, making it faster and more nimble? Let’s face facts the 2011-2014 Mustang GT are slightly on the heavy side which is not so bad if you love the car right off the show room floor, but there are few of us that want the car to be faster and more nimble, weight loss is just another way to get it. Some aftermarket parts that add more performance if chosen will also have a weight reduction benefit, so it makes good sense to choose your aftermarket up grades wisely. On the other hand, there are weight reduction tips that are actually free sort of speaking, you just need to make an adjustment.

So now we get to the good part. How to drop some pounds off your 2011-2014 Mustang GT that are not that hard to do. Most of us are not willing to put in an expensive aluminum k frame, or switch the hood and trunk lid to a lighter aluminum part as will involve big expense. Also most people cannot do this by themselves and will require it to go to a shop as needs to be painted on so on, which again adds to the cost even more so. Most of us want to do stuff that will drop some weight from our Mustangs and that can possibly be done fairly easily by ourselves, or by a shop, but not at a great expense.

Here is a list of items that most Mustang GT owners can do to drop some weight from their vehicle fairly easily and without a great expense.

Mustang GT Wheels: Replace your heavy factory wheels with nicer looking and lighter aluminum wheels. Most Mustang GT owners eventually want to replace their factory wheels to give their Mustang a look of its own. Just weigh your factory wheels and then switch to a lighter wheel, so you will also gain the benefit of the weight reduction.

Mustang GT Axle Back Exhaust: Switching to an aftermarket Axle Back Exhaust is another very popular mod many Mustang GT owners do. The main purpose of changing your stock axle back exhaust is to have a more muscle car sounding mustang. There is however another benefit to be found in regards to weight reduction by switching over to an aftermarket axle back exhaust. The stock Mustang GT axle back exhaust is very heavy and many of the aftermarket axle back exhaust systems are much lighter, some up to about a 29 pound weight drop over the stock system.

Mustang GT Aluminum One Piece Drive Shaft: The stock driveshaft in all 2011-2014 Mustang GT are very heavy weighing in at about 40 pounds, by replacing it with a one piece aluminum driveshaft, you will drop about 20 pounds of weight off your mustang while adding a little power to get to the rear wheels. Weight reduction is only the side effect of switching to a aluminum driveshaft, you also will now have a much stronger than stock driveshaft which has been known to twist when adding more power or slicks to your mustang GT, so it’s a great upgrade to do and worth the money.

Mustang Radiator Support: By replacing your stock radiator support with a stronger and lighter one such as ones from Steeda or BMR you can drop about 10 pounds of unwanted weight from the front of your Mustang GT.

Mustang Aluminum Radiator: You can change out your stock heavy radiator and replace it with a high quality aluminum one from a few aftermarket sources like Ford Racing, which will shed about 10 pounds of weight off your front end and make your Mustang GT run a little cooler at the same time. If you replace your stock radiator and the stock radiator support with the aftermarket lighter ones at the same time you can drop 20 pounds of weight off the front end of your Mustang.

Mustang GT Seats: In this area of weight reduction you can get some from the removal of your Mustangs rear seat, it’ called a rear seat delete kit and is available from places like American Muscle and will drop about 30-40 pounds of unwanted weight. Of course many of you may not want to remove your rear seats this is a more do what is needed procedure for racing.  Another option you can do to drop some weight is to replace your front stock seats with a set of lighter racing seats, this again many of you may not wish to do as is a more all-out race option, but it can be good for the street as well.

Free Weight Reduction For Your Mustang GT: Here is a totally free way to reduce some weight from your Mustang GT that many people never realize. Gasoline weighs 7 pounds per gallon, so by just running a half tank of gas versus a full tank of gas, you can remove some weight that you can really feel the difference in how your Mustang GT corners, brakes and accelerates.

Other Misc Weight Reduction Tips For Your Mustang GT: There are other ways to shed a few pounds here and there such as, switching to lighter than stock rotors and replacing your front sway bar with a lighter one, but these will only drop a few pounds and may not be worth the expense. Also replacing your stock battery with a light weight racing battery is another option to drop about 10 more pounds of weight, but this is an expensive weight drop, as most light weight racing batteries are very expensive. If you can find one, a light weight high torque starter will drop an average of about 8 pounds of weight, but at the time of this writing, I have not seen any available for the 2011-2014 Mustang GT. One last weight reduction tip you can do that will drop about 30 pounds of weight, is to remove your spare tire from the trunk which is great is just going drag racing or other, but remember to put a can of flat tire repair and possibly a foot air pump in your trunk just in case, it may save you if by some chance you do get a flat tire.

 

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2011-2014 Mustang GT BMR Rear Upper Control Arm Review

Installing a BMR rear upper control arm in your 2011-2014 Mustang GT can be a good upgrade, or for some people a not so good upgrade. The BMR upper control arm is much stronger than the stock upper control arm and comes with polyurethane bushings (greaseable spiral fluted polyurethane bushing) versus the stock control arm, which uses rubber bushings. Switching over to poly bushings has many benefits over the stock rubber bushings such as, reducing or eliminating wheel-hop, improve traction during straight-line acceleration, quicker launches for faster sixty foot times and better handling during cornering (corners sharper and more precise).

Now the upgrade to the BMR rear upper control arm while being a very good choice, may for some be a poor choice, this would be only if you cannot deal with a bit of gear whine noise after the install. Factory rubber bushing block noises, but poly bushing will allow noise to be heard easier inside your Mustang GT. We find the benefits of using the BMR upper control arm are much greater and not all that bad to deal with in the noise area. Just putting your radio on low will block these small noises so not much of a fuss to really deal with.

If you do decide to install the BMR rear upper control arm, it is highly recommended you also use their rear upper control arm mount which is much stronger than the stock piece and is an easy bolt-on using existing mounting holes, no welding, no drilling is required, direct replacement. If your Mustang GT is lowered, you would use the top hole in control arm mount and the bottom hole (hole closest to ground) for stock ride height Mustang GT. Always make sure to torque all nuts/bolts to proper specs and do use blue Loctite on all treads to keep thing in place. Also make sure that all is greased properly before driving the vehicle.

Now as far as doing this job yourself, I would not recommend it, you really need the Mustang up on a lift. To get at the control arm bolt that attaches to the rear end can be difficult, the rear end must drop down a certain amount or you will have a very tough time at it. Even though we could have done this job at home in the garage, we chose to take our 2012 Mustang GT over to a auto repair shop and save a ton of hassle. The shop only charged us $100, it took them about 45 minutes and we were on our way.

 

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2010 – 2012 Mustang Fog Light Removal Increases Air Flow

Removing your 2010 – 2012 Mustang GT front grille fog lights will increase air flow for better performance and cooling. There are three good reasons to remove the front grille fog lights, the first being many of us find the fog lights make the Mustang GT look well, kind of ugly. The second reason to remove them is, you will now have much better air flow to the radiator and cold air intake, which adds up to better over-all performance. The third reason is by eliminating the fog lights, you will drop a few pounds of weight from the front end which is a good thing. Removing the front grille is fairly easy and should only take you about 20-30 min. There are a few tips we can give you to make the job go smoother and possibly save you some time and a few headaches.

Steps to remove your 2010 – 2012 Mustang GT front grille

Do this on a warm day as the grille is plastic and is less likely to break or crack when warm.

  • Open your hood and remove the top of radiator plastic cover.
  • Now disconnect each fog light so when removing the grille you do not break the connections.
  • Now to remove the grille, start by pulling firmly on each side one at a time pulling the retaining clips out (2 clips on each side), then just pull the bottom of grille so the retaining clips on bottom portion of grille pop out and grille is now removed. Note: when pulling the side of grille clips out, pull straight out or you may beak a clip, spraying the retaining clips with some silicone will make pulling out the side clips easier.

Now with the grille removed you can easily remove both fog lights and brackets. You could just re-install front grille as is or get some steel mesh screen to cover the fog light holes, which is what we recommend to do, as this will keep out debris while still allowing easy air flow through. We used mesh screen with ¼ inch square holes on our 2012 Mustang GT, some modified grilles being sold use mesh screen with ½ inch holes which is fine but does allow debris to get passed easier. After we cut and molded the mesh screen we painted the screen black, we then attached our screen to the inside area behind the fog light openings with some JB weld so holds on very secure.

To re-install your front grille, just line up the retaining clips on the bottom first then the sides and then firmly push all into place.

If you were to purchase a Mustang Boss 302 grille from Ford to replace your stock Mustang GT grille as a modification for improved air flow for cooling, improved air flow to your cold air system and small drop in weight, you would be looking at a cost of around $600 – $900 or so depending where you live. So by just modifying your stock 2010 – 2012 Mustang GT front grille you will get all the benefits without the high cost.

 

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Chevy Cobalt 2.2 K&N Air Filter Review

Does replacing your stock air cleaner in a Chevy Cobalt 2.2 with a K&N filter really improve horsepower? We tested out a K&N air filter to see if would give our 2006 Chevy Cobalt a horsepower increase. We have seen other reviews stating the horsepower increases, but really need to see for ourselves if actually does or does not increase the Cobalt 2.2 horsepower. The one point we do like about the K&N air filter is it is reusable and will last many thousands of miles/km.

Changing over to the K&N air filter is not hard to do, you just remove the top of your stock cold air assembly, remove stock air cleaner, and replace it with the K&N air cleaner. The K&N is already pre-oiled, you just drop it right in and your done. We were told that it would take the Cobalt’s computer a short time to adjust to the K&N filter increased air flow, about a few hours of driving time. After the install our Cobalt 2.2 started right up and we noticed a change in the sound of the 2.2 motor, sounded a little heavier than stock.

We drove around for a few hours to let all adjust. We noticed the power of the car changed from having more power at lower rpms with stock air filter, to now having more power at higher rpms only, but less at the lower rpms. We also took note that our gas mileage was a little better than before. We took note of our 0-60 times when stock air cleaner was in the car. The 0-60 time with the K&N air filter was much slower, actually the whole car felt much slower than stock. We left the K&N filter in for the winter, as the tires would not spin as easy as car had less torque down low than with stock filter installed. For winter driving this worked well, gave better gas mileage and less power, which made winter driving better. However when spring arrived we put the stock air filter back in and after a few hours of driving, our Chevy Cobalt once again had more horsepower, it had returned back to stock horsepower levels.

Our conclusion is the K&N air filter made our 2006 Chevy Cobalt 2.2 slower than stock, yet sounded heavier than stock. The K&N gave the car better gas mileage than the stock filter, so if gas mileage is your concern, the K&N is good, but if more torque/horsepower is your concern, the K&N actually makes the car slower. We think a aftermarket K&N cold air system, not just the filter, may improve horsepower, but that is a test for another time.

 

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2011-2014 Mustang GT SR Sway Bar Kit Install

Looking to improve your 2011-2014 Mustang GT handling capabilities is as easy as installing an SR Performance sway bar kit. We chose to install the SR performance sway bar kit with the adjustable front bar just in case we need to fine tune our 2012 Mustang GT a little. We also chose SR performance sway bars for ease of install (direct stock replacements) even the rear end links look like stock, just beefier and of course with polyurethane bushings. We had no problems with installing this kit and our Mustang GT now corners much better than the stock setup, no leaning at all and traction off the line has actually improved as well.

SR Performance Sway Bar Kit Features:

  • Improves all around handling performance.
  • Eliminates body roll.
  • Kit Includes both front and rear sway bars.
  • Front sway bar is 3 Way-adjustable.
  • Rear sway bar is non-adjustable.
  • Front sway Bar: 36mm Tubular.
  • Rear sway Bar: 25mm Solid.

This kit will Fit 2011-2014 Mustang GT, V6 and 2011-2012 Shelby GT500

This kit Improves the handling performance of your S197 Mustang GT with reduce body roll through increased design stiffness over the stock factory sway bars. The result is a much more superior handling vehicle, flatter cornering and much better stability in all driving situations.

You can install the rear sway bar two ways, use the SR brackets or can easily just re-use your stock bolts/setup, we did it this way as we wanted to retain our stock bolts, we feel it’s a better setup and much easier to deal with.

3-Way Adjustable. The SR Performance Front Sway Bar features three (3) adjustment positions for fine tuning the handling balance of your Pony to suit your driving needs from mild to wild.

Superior Quality and Materials. SR Performance manufactures their Sway Bars from cold-formed, high-strength aircraft-grade steel for precision performance, and completes them in a black powder coat finish for great looks and long life. The front bar is a 36mm diameter tubular design, where the rear bar is 25mm diameter solid design.

The installation of this SR Performance Sway Bar Kit for 2012-2014 Mustang GT is pretty straight forward, nothing to hard that cannot be done in your own driveway. We just followed the supplied directions and had both front and rear sway bars installed in a few hours. We also choose to set up the front sway bar using the middle holes which is the street handling setting. This SR sway bar kit along with our Mickey Thompson Street Comp Tires, Koni Yellow Struts and Shocks has transformed our 2012 Mustang GT into a cornering beast!

 

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2011–2015 Mustang GT Royal Purple Engine Oil Review

You want the best engine oil for your 2011-2015 Mustang GT but don’t know which to choose, maybe we can help you decide. You definitely need to use synthetic engine oil if you want your 5.0 coyote to last a long time. Now of course we want to use the best, or close to the best synthetic engine oil in our Mustangs but there are many to choose from and reviews vary which confuses people on which brand to use.

Without going into the scientific make up of each brand of engine oil as there is plenty information on that out there already, we will just get to the point. The very best let’s say top 3 or 4 synthetic engine oils are not going to be much different from each other concerning friction, longevity and performance gains. All will give about same high grade engine protection (friction wear) and horsepower/torque gains, so to stress yourself out trying to figure out which brand of oil is slightly better is really not worth it, just choose one of the top brands and stick with it.

When it comes to choosing your brand of engine oil for your 2011-2015 Mustang GT you cannot go wrong using Royal Purple Synthetic Engine Oil or Castrol Synthetic Engine Oil. In virtually all testings of major brands of synthetic oil, these two excellent brands were always at the top. Both of these two engine oils stick to metal surfaces so your start up does not cause as much engine damage. We tested this out a few times on a few different Mustangs and found this to be true. Other top synthetic engine oils for example as the very popular Mobil 1 Synthetic oil failed to stick to the metal surface like Royal Purple or Castrol Synthetic, which is something that is of great benefit for the longevity and reliability of your Mustang GT 5.0 engine.

We routinely now use Royal Purple Synthetic Oil in all of our Mustangs and in our daily drivers as well. We chose to stick with Royal Purple over Castrol as we noticed when running Royal Purple our Mustang GT 5.0 engine ran noticeably quieter. Also it was seen on the dyno over and over that when running Royal Purple Synthetic Oil versus Castrol Synthetic Oil, the Royal Purple gave a tad more horsepower gain ( half a horsepower or .5 gain) This of course is not much but it still is better. Both of these excellent synthetic motor oils cost about the same, so just buy and use whichever is cheaper at the time and you simply cannot go wrong.

Yes, there may be a few other race oils out there that will be slightly better than these two top synthetic oils, but the cost will be much higher for very little gain and not to mention the fact that they will not be as easy to find, you will not find them at stores such as Walmart. You can find Royal Purple Synthetic Oil and Castrol Synthetic engine oils just about everywhere now, even at your local Walmart.

Now that you know which brand of synthetic oils to choose from for your 2011-2015 Mustang GT you should also use a good high quality engine oil filter to go along with your synthetic engine oil. You do not want to use the cheapest, you need a good high quality oil filter that passes all tests, this brings us to three excellent oil filters to choose from, K&N, Royal Purple and Wix, there simply is no better. We have been using K&N oil filters in all of our high performance Mustangs and other high performance vehicles for many years without any issues, so we stick with what works and we recommend you do the same.

 

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2012 Mustang GT Driveshaft Shop Aluminum Driveshaft Install

If you drive a 2011-2014 Mustang GT the aluminum driveshaft from the Driveshaft Shop is a much needed upgrade over your stock Mustang GT driveshaft. By Installing this excellent aluminum driveshaft your Mustang GT will benefit by losing 20 pounds of unsprung weight, plus gaining more reliability and strength over factory stock driveshaft. Another great benefit of the DSS aluminum driveshaft is your Mustang GT will rev faster and free up 8 Horsepower and 8 Foot Pounds of torque as seen on the dyno on our own 2012 Mustang GT. This along with the drop in unsprung weight equals a good performance gain and allows power to get to the rear wheels so much quicker. The DSS aluminum driveshaft fixes the weak link in your stock Mustang GT drive train, it’s simply a must have upgrade for all 2011-2014 Mustang GT.

Let’s take a look at the features of the Driveshaft Shop Aluminum One Piece Driveshaft:

  • Reduces rotating mass for faster ET’s.
  • Lighter plus much stronger than stock.
  • Lighter weight than stock 19 lbs vs 39 lbs.
  • 6061-T6 aluminum construction and is rated for up to 3450 ft lbs of torque and up to 900 horsepower.
  • 1350 front u-joint with flange to mount directly to the transmission and a 28 spline 108 mm 6-bolt rear CV joint made from an all new 300M material.
  • 3.5″ diameter for extra clearance.
  • High speed balanced up to 9500 RPM (revolutions per minute).
  • Good for stock or lowered 2011-2014 Mustang GT.
  • Quality product and perfect fitment.
  • Tuning not required for this upgrade.
  • Fits 2011-2014 Mustang GT Manual or Automatic and BOSS Mustangs.

To install the Driveshaft Shop One Piece Aluminum Driveshaft, you can take it to a qualified shop, or do it yourself as it is a straightforward fairly easy to do install. We chose to do the install ourselves at home in our garage. Here is a list of tools we used and the procedure to complete the install on our 2012 Mustang GT Automatic.

Tools Needed List:

  • Two low profile car ramps both same height, one for front and one for rear of vehicle.
  • One hydraulic low profile floor jack, four medium bottle jacks and 2 taller jack stands.
  • Tire chocks.
  • Torque wrench.
  • Breaker Bar 1/2 drive.
  • 12 mm 12 point socket 3/8 drive to remove transmission end flange bolts.
  • 8 mm bit socket 3/8 drive.
  • 7 mm bit socket 3/8 drive.
  • 10 mm socket.
  • 13 mm socket.
  • Various other sockets and wrenches to remove stock driveshaft and exhaust sections.
  • Rubber Mallet.
  • Blue Threadlocker (Medium strength).
  • Safety glasses.

DSS One Piece Aluminum Driveshaft Install Procedure:

  1. Drive vehicle up onto car ramps so front end is lifted up and block front tires with tire chocks if can.
  2. Using the hydraulic floor jack lift rear end of vehicle (lifting directly under rear end housing) sliding the other car ramps into place under the rear tires, now vehicle is lifted up and supported by ramps. Keep the floor jack in place under the rear end housing as will need to lift and lower rear slightly to loosen and tighten driveshaft bolts. We also put jack stands under the rear axle closest to the tires as can to give us some extra safety support. We still needed to lift our Mustang up a little higher to give more room to work, so we used the 4 bottle jacks positioned along the pass and driver side at front and rear jacking points to evenly lift car a tad higher when needed.
  3. Remove the passenger side part of exhaust at the clamps from just ahead of the factory H-Pipe (middle exhaust section) and the clamps joining the axle back to the middle exhaust section, then just move the exhaust over to one side, this will give you the room needed to get at all driveshaft bolts. No need to completely remove the exhaust from car.
  4. Next we removed the stock driveshaft. First remove the flange bolts on the pinion or rear of car, then remove the flange bolts from the transmission end of car. After those bolts have been removed, you then remove the middle section (bracket) of the driveshaft. There are 2 bolts holding middle section of the driveshaft to the bottom of car, you will need an extension to reach those 2 bolts and 2 spacers. Now you will need to pry or tap with your mallet the trans side flange of driveshaft to break it free. Be careful the stock driveshaft is heavy.Once the stock driveshaft is removed it’s time to install the DSS aluminum one piece driveshaft.
  5. First install the adapter onto the pinion side flange by lining up the holes, installing a few supplied short bolts just to hold in place, then tap in the supplied adapter evenly until seated using a rubber mallet.
  6. Now put in all bolts to hold in adapter and tighten them up. Then remove one bolt at a time and apply blue threadlocker, put bolts back in and tighten just snug. Do this to all the adapter bolts, then in a criss cross pattern torque all bolts to 57 ft-lbs. You will have to put key in ignition and turn to just accessories position, then put trans in neutral position and lift rear of car so tires can be turned by hand to rotate driveshaft to get at the bolts. When tightening bolts you will need to apply the parking brake, tighten bolts, then release parking brake when need to rotate drive shaft to reach other bolts.
  7. Now install the CV joint end of DSS driveshaft to adapter first, putting 2 of the longer bolts plus supplied washers in just to hold in place. Then on the trans side flange re-install 2 stock bolts just to hold in place. You may have to use some rope to tie up DSS driveshaft in the middle, this will help hold up the driveshaft while you put in the transmission end flange bolts.
  8. Now go back to the CV joint/pinion end and install all 6 bolts and supplied washers, tighten up snug, then remove one bolt at a time and apply blue thread locker, re-install bolts, then torque all bolts in a criss cross pattern to 57 ft-lbs.
  9. Now go to trans end flange and put in all 4 stock bolts just snug, then remove one bolt at a time and apply blue thread locker, then torque all 4 bolts in a criss cross pattern to 76 ft-lbs.
  10. Re-install your exhaust, torquing all clamp bolts to 40-45 ft-lbs. You have now completed the install.

All that is left to do, is just lower your 2011-2014 Mustang GT, then go test drive it and feel the difference your new DSS Aluminum One Piece Driveshaft gives your Mustang versus the old stock driveshaft, you will be pleased!

 

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2006 Chevy Cobalt Throttle Body Cleaning

If your 2006 Chevy Cobalt has over 30,000 km or 15,000 miles the throttle body will need some cleaning. When cleaning your 2006 up Chevy Cobalt you must do it correctly or you could do some harm to the throttle body or the settings. The actual cleaning part is easy to do, you just need to know how to do it. To clean your throttle body ONLY use throttle body cleaner, not carburetor cleaner. I recommend CRC Throttle Body Cleaner as it will not remove the stock throttle body protective coating, which helps to reduce the black gunk build up you usually see when looking into your throttle body.

There are two ways you can clean the throttle body. The first way is to actually remove the throttle body and then clean it, or the second way, which is to leave it on the car and clean it. If you have never cleaned your 2006 Chevy Cobalt throttle body and it now has over 100,000 km or 60,000 miles, it might be best to remove it and thoroughly clean it. Our 2006 Chevy Cobalt has just over 38,000 km, so we are going to leave it on the motor to clean it.

Some tools and supplies you will need are:

Flat Head Screwdriver

Soft bristle toothbrush

CRC Throttle Body Cleaner

Pliers

Rags

You start your 2006 Chevy Cobalt throttle body clean by removing the oil fill cap and the plastic engine cover (put fill cap back in place) Then you remove the plastic piece that attaches to the throttle body by removing a plastic clip on drivers side, then loosening the clamp that attaches to the throttle body again on drivers side, then loosening the clamp to the air cleaner assembly, then using your pliers remove the rubber hose clamp that attaches to the motor (clamp closest to the motor) on the passenger side. Now you can just lift off the plastic air intake piece from the throttle body.

Before you begin cleaning your Cobalt throttle body make sure the vehicle has no key in the ignition. Now take your toothbrush soak it in throttle body cleaner and lightly scrub away the black gunk inside the throttle body. To get between the throttle body and the throttle body butterfly valve, you just push the valve open with your finger, but only just a crack, just enough so the toothbrush bristles can get between and clean no more as may change throttle body settings. Now just wipe all clean carefully with a clean rag. You may have to spray some throttle body cleaner onto your rag and wipe all a few times. Do not spray the throttle body cleaner directly into the Cobalt throttle body.

After all is clean you can re-assemble what you removed. You should clean everything inside and out as you put it all back in place. This would also be a good time to check your air filter and replace if necessary. It would also be a good time to remove your mass air flow sensor from the air filter assembly and clean it with mass air flow sensor cleaner (spray inside it to clean the wires), Do Not clean it with carburetor cleaner or throttle body cleaner it could harm it, use only mass air flow sensor cleaner.

After all is clean and back in place, start your 2006 Chevy Cobalt and let it warm up and idle for about 15 min and you are done.

 

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2011-2014 Mustang GT Ford Racing Ignition Coils Review

Installing Ford Racing Ignition Coils on your 2011-2014 Mustang GT is an easy to do job that will bring back lost horsepower and torque. If your Mustang GT has over 35,000 km your ignition coils are slowly getting weaker putting out less voltage, which means loss of horsepower and torque, even your gas mileage will suffer as well as throttle response. The solution is to replace your factory ignition coils with high quality Ford Racing Stock Replacement Ignition Coil Packs, which will definitely bring back lost horsepower and torque and give you crisper throttle response.

Now we know there are aftermarket ignition coils from sources as Accel, MSD, Performance Distributors, GMS, SR, as well as many others, who claim if you replace your stock ignition coils with theirs, you will get a nice boost in horsepower and torque. There are pros and cons to using these aftermarket ignition coil packs which we will reveal to you so you can make the best decision when replacing your 2011-2014 Mustang GT ignition coils. Yes, switching to an aftermarket ignition coils will bump up your horsepower and torque, but only by a few, as seen with Accel Super Coil On Plug Kit which showed 6 hp and 4 ft/lbs torque gain on a totally stock 2011 Mustang GT. This is all fine but at what cost, as the aftermarket coil packs are twice the cost of Ford Racing Coil Packs and from the numerous reviews we read it seems the aftermarket coil packs are not very reliable. We have read about some of the aftermarket coil packs failing within 6 months to 1 year, needing replacement. Most would need to take their Mustang GT to a shop to find out which coil pack or packs went bad, costing more money. Many who experienced aftermarket coil pack failures, just switched back to new stock Ford ignition coil packs as was not worth the headaches of dealing with failed coil packs.

Interestingly enough, when we installed the Ford Racing Stock Replacement Coil Packs on two Mustang GT’s, our 2012 Mustang GT which is modified had picked up some lost horsepower and torque to the tune of 5 HP and 4 ft/lbs torque and the other 2011 Mustang GT which is totally stock, picked up 3 HP and 2 ft/lbs torque as revealed by the dyno. Another good point to mention is that the Ford Racing Ignition Coils are good for a stock Mustang GT, as well as a modified Mustang GT pushing up to 700 HP with no issues. Really the choice comes down to you, do you want a few more horsepower and torque at a higher cost that may come with reliability issues, or a smaller gain in horsepower and torque, less cost, and no reliability issues. We decided to stick with the Ford Racing Ignition Coils Packs as our 2012 Mustang GT saw a good gain in horsepower and torque, better throttle response and with Ford Racing high quality stock replacement parts, we will have no reliability issues, so we never have to worry about it.

So if reliability is not an issue for your 2011-2014 Mustang GT it is possible to gain more horsepower using an aftermarket ignition coil on plug kit and if you were to open up your spark plug gaps a little more, you would see a few more horsepower and torque gains, the choice is really up to you!

 

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