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2021 Ford Ranger New Options Plus Special Packages

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What’s new for Ford Ranger in 2021? In 2021 Ford Ranger basically remains mostly unchanged, there is more color choices, plus special options/off road packages. If you’re only going for out right value and performance. Then the base model XL 4 × 4 Super Cab is for you. It gives you the power plus good ride quality of the other Ford Ranger models. Also because of its smaller Super Cab, and lower level of standard equipment. It does not weigh as much as the XLT 4 × 4 option models and Lariat trims models. This will result in more get up and go and possibly little better road manners.

As with the previous year, when you lift the hood up on the 2021 Ford Ranger, you’ll be getting the same turbocharged 2.3 liter four cylinder engine that generates 270 horsepower and 310 lb ft of torque, which is enough power to make the Ford Ranger impressive on road and off road. It get’s even more impressive with the lighter Ranger XL model Super Cab, which may surprise you with its power and it’s agility. All Ford Ranger get a 10 speed automatic that provides quick smooth shifts. Rear wheel drive Rangers will give you 8.4 inches of ground clearance, and the four wheel drive Rangers will give you 8.9 inches of ground clearance.

Standard with a turbocharged 2.3 liter four-cylinder engine that puts out 270 HP and 310 Torque

In 2021 Ford Ranger has an available Terrain Management System that tweaks things like engine responsiveness, also transmission gearing that optimizes the performance on various types of terrain. You will also get four selectable drive modes Normal, Grass/Gravel/Snow, Mud/Ruts, plus Sand.

For 2021 Ford Rangers now have a nice option for more engine power. The Ford Ranger comes standard with a turbocharged 2.3 liter four-cylinder engine that puts out 270 horsepower and 310 lb/ft of torque. With the new option from Ford Performance, new engine calibration will increase engine output by 45 horsepower at 4500 rpm and 60 lb/ft of torque at 2500 rpm. This new engine calibration from Ford Performance will cost you $825. It also gives an optimized shift schedule to let the standard 10 speed transmission move through its gears more cleanly. You also get a performance air filter to go along with the package. The performance boost you will get from this package will definitely improve the Ranger’s 0-60 times. 

New for Ford Ranger’s in 2021 are 3 Off Road Ford Performance Packages plus options

Ford Performance Level 1 Package:

The three individual packages are dealer installed with extra cost for installation. All three levels include an off-road suspension system with Ford-tuned Fox shocks, 17-inch Dyno Gray wheels, and Ford Performance windshield decals and rear fender graphics. (Ford Performance decals) The Level 1 upgrade cost is $2,495.00.

Ford Performance Level 2 Package:

Adding on to the standard off-road suspension, wheels, and graphics included on the Level 1 upgrade, the Level 2 package adds 265/70 BF Goodrich K02 off road tires, an off road lighting kit, blue tow hooks, and a Ford Performance stainless steel license plate frame. You’ll also get a Ford Performance engine calibration for the turbocharged 2.3 liter four cylinder which boosts horsepower to 315 and torque to 370 lb/ft. This package will cost you around $4,495.00. 

Ford Performance Level 3 Package:

The Level 3 package gets all the parts from the Level 1 and 2 packages along with a Ford Performance chase rack with a 40-inch LED light bar, an ARB winch-capable front bumper, and a sport exhaust system, plus red tow hooks. This top level off road accessory package will cost you $8,995.00 (This is the cost without installation).

Ford will also offer a suspension upgrade kit through Ford Performance for the Ranger and the F-150 as well. This package will give the front suspension a 2.0 inch lift so  matches the rear for a nice uniform look. It will improve the Ranger’s approach angle by 21 percent.

The black appearance package option, will add black 18-inch wheels and grille. It now also includes black Ford oval badges and new bedside decals.

Ford Ranger exterior color options for 2021 are as follows

Saber Colors

Iconic Silver Colors

Rapid Red Metallic Colors

Lightning Blue Colors

Shadow Black Colors

Oxford White Colors

White Platinum Colors

Magnetic Colors

Cactus Grey Colors

Carbonized Grey Colors

Lightning Blue Colors

Shadow Black Colors

Cyber Orange Colors

Velocity Blue Colors

Race Red Colors

We like the fact the 2021 Ford Rangers have 3 Ford Performance Packages. More available horsepower plus torque. You can now put together the Ford Ranger in a way that was not available in previous years. Looking Good Ford!

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2011-2014 Mustang GT Weight Reduction Tips

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Want some excellent 2011-2014 Mustang GT weight reduction tips that will help shed a few pounds off your Mustang GT, making it faster and more nimble. The 2011-2014 Mustang GT are on the heavy side which is not so bad, if you love the car right off the show room floor. However there are few of us that want the car to be faster and more nimble. Weight loss is just another way to get it easy.

Some aftermarket parts that add more performance if chosen will also have a weight reduction benefit. This makes good sense to choose your aftermarket up grades wisely. On the other hand, there are weight reduction tips that are actually free sort of speaking. All you just need is to make an adjustment.

How To Drop Some Pounds Off Your Mustang GT

So now we get to the good part. How to drop some pounds off your 2011-2014 Mustang GT that are not that hard to do. Many of us are not willing to put in an expensive aluminum k frame, or switch the hood and trunk lid to a lighter aluminum part. That would be looked at last as will involve big expense. Also most people cannot do this by themselves and will require it to go to a shop. This being as needs to be painted on so on, which again adds to the cost even more so.

Most of us want to do stuff that will drop some weight from our Mustangs. It must be easy so that can possibly be done fairly easily by ourselves. Or by a shop, but not at a great expense. Here is a list of items that most Mustang GT owners can do to drop some weight from their vehicle. These are fairly easily and without a great expense.

Weight Reduction List

Mustang GT Wheels: Replace your heavy factory wheels with nicer looking and lighter aluminum wheels. Mustang GT owners eventually want to replace their factory wheels to give their Mustang a look of its own. Just weigh your factory wheels and then switch to a lighter wheel. Then you will also gain the benefit of the weight reduction.

Mustang GT Axle Back Exhaust: Switching to an aftermarket Axle Back Exhaust is another very popular mod many Mustang GT owners do. The main purpose of changing your stock axle back exhaust is to have a more muscle car sounding mustang. Another benefit is found in regards to weight reduction by switching over to an aftermarket axle back exhaust. Stock Mustang GT axle back exhaust very heavy. A few of the aftermarket axle back exhaust systems are much lighter than stock. Some up to about a 29 pound weight drop over the stock system.

Switching Stock Driveshaft To An Aluminum One Piece Driveshaft Is Good For A Tenth Faster

Mustang GT Aluminum One Piece Driveshaft: Stock driveshaft in all 2011-2014 Mustang GT are very heavy weighing in at about 40 pounds. By replacing it with a one piece aluminum driveshaft, you will drop about 20 pounds of weight off your mustang. Doing this also adds a little power to get to the rear wheels and about a tenth faster. Weight reduction is only the side effect of switching to a aluminum driveshaft. You also will now have a much stronger than stock driveshaft. Stock driveshafts have been known to twist when adding more power or slicks to your mustang GT. It’s a no brainer, it’s a great upgrade to do and worth the money.

Mustang Aluminum Radiator: Change out your stock heavy radiator and replace it with a high quality aluminum one. There available from aftermarket sources like Ford Racing, which will shed about 10 pounds of weight off your front end. This will make your Mustang GT run a little cooler at the same time. Replacing your stock radiator and stock radiator support with the aftermarket lighter ones at the same time is best. You can drop 20 pounds of weight right there. This weight comes off the front end of your Mustang, which is great.

Dropping Weight Is Like Adding HP, More If It’s Rotating Weight Dropped

Mustang GT Seats: In this area of weight reduction you can get some from the removal of your Mustangs rear seat. It’s called a rear seat delete kit and is available from places like American Muscle. Will usually drop about 30-40 pounds of unwanted weight. Some of you may not want to remove your rear seats, is more of a procedure for racing.  Another option you can do to drop some weight is to replace your front stock seats. Install a set of lighter racing seats. This could drop up to 60 pounds of weight. Again this procedure is a more all-out race option, but it can be good for the street as well.

AC Compressor + AC Condenser: Remove the AC Compressor and AC Condenser plus lines and bolts, drop 22 lbs of weight off the front end. AC Compressor plus lines and bolts and belt remove 15 lbs and AC Condenser plus lines and bolts remove 7 lbs. So you drop 22 lbs weight total, gain a little hp from weight loss and ac belt removal. You also increase your radiator and trans cooler cooling. This happens as you removed blockage to increase air flow to them. Like magic you also increase the air flow to the starter as well as the AC Compressor blocks it a well.

Mustang Radiator Support: Replacing your stock radiator support with a stronger and lighter one such as ones from Steeda or BMR. You can drop about 10 pounds of unwanted weight from the front of your Mustang GT.

Free Weight Reduction For Your Mustang GT

Here is a totally free way to reduce weight from your Mustang GT that many people never realize. Gasoline weighs 7 pounds per gallon. so by just running a half tank of gas versus a full tank of gas, you remove weight. You can really feel the difference in how your Mustang GT corners, brakes and accelerates when doing this.

Other Misc Weight Reduction Tips For Your Mustang GT

There are other ways to shed a few pounds here and there. Switching to lighter than stock rotors. Replacing your front sway bar with a lighter one. These will only drop a few pounds and may not be worth the expense for some

Replacing your stock battery with a light weight racing battery is another option to drop about 10 more pounds of weight. This can be an expensive weight drop. Light weight racing batteries can be very expensive. If you can find one, a light weight high torque starter will drop an average of about 8 pounds of weight. At the time of this writing, I have not seen any available for the 2011-2014 Mustang GT.

One last weight reduction tip you can do that will drop about 30 pounds of weight. Simply remove your spare tire and junk from the trunk. Which is great is just going drag racing or other. Remember to put a can of flat tire repair and possibly a foot air pump in your trunk just in case. It may save you if by some chance you do get a flat tire.

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How To Race A Chevy Cobalt 2.2 Automatic

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You have a Chevy Cobalt LT 2.2 Coupe Automatic and want to know how to race it using your transmission selector. First you need to know what D, I, L, all mean. Also how these shifter selections should be used. Especially if you like to drag race your Cobalt. Our cobalt test car is a 2006 Chevy Cobalt Coupe LT 2.2 Ecotec 4-speed automatic.  

On the shifter selector “L” is for off-the-line performance. When in L (low) or 1st, it turns off the Traction Control (TC). It engages the low/reverse band to assist the one-way roller assembly through the first gear. And it holds the transmission in 1st gear until redline. Then it will shift into 2nd gear. Once in 2nd gear you should shift up to “I” before hitting redline.

Now “I” is for spirited type driving. It is full automatic but doesn’t allow the tranny to shift into over drive. The tranny will upshift at higher engine RPMs and will also downshift on its’ own as you decelerate. But TC does not get turned off — if you get wheel spin and TC engages you will lose power for a few seconds. If no wheel spin no loss of power will occur. You can drive in “I” but you lose MPG because the tranny won’t go into OD and will shift at higher RPMs than being in D (drive).

So let’s get to “D” (drive) It is for regular driving. Just forget about it and just drive. Best for MPG as the tranny will upshift to a higher gear quicker and go into OD for the best MPG.

If Drag Racing Chevy Cobalt Automatic, Start Off in Low

So if you are going to race another vehicle off the line. It would be best to put your trans in “L” just remember when in “L” it only goes 1st and 2nd, then if you want to go into third, put your trans into “I” before you redline in 2nd.

Generally your 2.2 Chevy Cobalt will be it’s fastest when in “L”. Then second fastest when in “I”. Then third fastest when in “D”.  Most vehicles when in L or low gear, will not shift up to second on it’s own. It will hold low gear and not shift. Chevy Cobalt automatics are a little different, even I was surprised to find this out. You floor it while in L and it will shift into second at very high rpm, but will not shift into 3rd by it’s self.

Hope you now have a little better understanding on how your automatic trans works. Mainly for racing your Chevy Cobalt automatic, so that you can use it to your full advantage.

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S197 Mustang GT With Nitto NTO5R Tires On Street Review

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If you drive an S197 Mustang GT and been wondering how good Nitto NTO5R drag radials are on the street, then read our review, it will surprise some of you! Most think of running a drag radial on the street as risky as handling goes out the door and that is basically true when it comes to most drag radial tires, but as we have found out for ourselves the Nitto NTO5R Drag Radials are the exception, these babies hook up very well and actually handle very good on the street in dry weather.

Before we decided to put on a set of Nitto NTO5R drag radials, we were running the Nitto NTO5 in the exact same size, which are almost a drag radial, just a little less sticky and a little stiffer side wall. The difference between these two tires is as follows.

Nitto NTO5

1 – They have a stiff side wall which gives a rougher/choppy ride with a stiffer suspension.

2 – They are a very sticky tire, almost as sticky as a drag radial.

3 – These tires do all very well, handle, stop, launch, even ok in rain if drive cautiously. If you do not do burnouts all the time the tread wear is very good.

Nitto NTO5R

1 – They have a side wall that is less stiff than the Nitto NTO5 tires. We could feel the difference even when we hit bumps, it soaked them up, so not as choppy a ride as with the NTO5 tires.

2 – These tires are noticeably stickier than the NTO5 tires.

3 – These tires launch very well and handle well on the street, almost as good as the NTO5 tires at low to medium speeds. At high speeds they felt a little less stable. These tires are not good in the rain, best to avoid driving with these tires in heavy rain.

We tried a few different psi settings when running the NTO5R on the street as a daily driver and for our 2012 Mustang GT we felt 35 psi was a good overall setting. If we wanted a little more grab off the line all that was need to do was run 33 psi, but could feel that the handling was a tad worse that when set at the 35 psi setting. At the drag strip we found that 28 psi worked great and felt the safest.

You do not need a burnout for these tires to hook, if it is warm out, they are ready to go. Doing a burnout may actually make them slip more as there is more rubbery goo. So even on the street these tires are ready to go after just driving for a short time in hot weather. Over-all for a drag radial driven on the street the Nitto NTO5R tires really impressed us for sure. We also found out that if you do not do silly burnouts etc and just drive moderately aggressive on the street, these babies do not seem to wear down all that fast, unlike some other drag radials we have tested on our 500 HP 2012 Mustang GT in the past.

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2011-2019 Mustang Pedal Commander Review

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We got our hands on the Pedal Commander Throttle Controller and installed it and tested it on our 2012 Mustang GT. After testing it out for a few hours we decided to keep it set on Sport + 4 Like another’s who have it on this setting, it does get very jumpy. You can’t just put your foot down and go on this one, you have to have some control, it’s just takes a few hours of driving to feel it out and you will get used to it quickly. Sport is good for spirited driving and your throttle lag will be virtually gone. We would not recommend having it on all of the time in the Sport setting as in driving in a parkade for example, as could be dangerous as your car will redline at the slightest touch of the throttle and may result in hitting another vehicle by accident.

The Sport + 4 setting makes the car accelerate and shift (for automatics) much more sportier. Your vehicle will feel like it has gained a good amount of horsepower and torque, however there is actually no horsepower or torque gain, what it does is use what is already there but just bringing it all in faster at a lower rpm, which by are testing does make your 2011-2019 Mustang GT faster as long as your tires can hook up the power coming in all at once. This setting will make your Mustang jump, it kinda feels like you are driving a manual trans Mustang if using on an Automatic Trans Mustang and it will put a smile on your face. Our opinion is this product gives your 2011-2019 Mustang GT the throttle response the way it should have been from factory.

There are plenty of youtube videos showing you how to hook up your Pedal Commander Throttle Controller , so we do not need to cover that. We will give you other information that you may need to know that is not covered in other reviews. We will also not go over the other Pedal Commander settings, you can do that yourself as you need to find which setting feels right for you.

Pedal Commander Information You Should Know:

  • We recommend turning on your Pedal Commander after your Mustang GT is up to normal driving temperature.
  • When testing out the various settings of your Pedal Commander, you should do it in an empty area before driving with it on in traffic so you are used to it.
  • The Pedal Commander is not a tune, it only changes how much throttle response you get.
  • If you already have a tune (even a race tune as our 2012 Mustang GT has) you can still use along with the Pedal Commander, it just helps you fine tune your throttle response, it does not affect your tune in any other way.
  • You can turn on or turn off your Pedal Commander as you please, you can simply turn it off when you don’t want to use it.
  • City setting is very close to stock just with a little quicker throttle response. This setting is great for those of you who do not care about racing your Mustang GT, but just would like to get rid of the stock throttle response lag.
  • The Pedal Commander works great along with added mods.
  • Eco mode really limits throttle, It acts as an eco mode to prevent heavy acceleration or also as a valet mode. With eco turned up all the way the car really won’t go over 30 without 10 miles of road ahead of you.

We hope our Pedal Commander Review has helped you out a little, so you can make a good decision on whether this Pedal Commander mod is right or wrong for you!

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2011 – 2014 Mustang GT Pan Hard Bar Brace Upgrade

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Replacing the stock Mustang Pan Hard Bar Brace with an upgraded one will improve your 2011 – 2014 Mustang GT handing. We choose to replace our stock 2012 Mustang GT Pan Hard Bar Brace with a better one from Steeda. Other companies that offer these upgraded braces such as BMR, Whiteline, RTR and so on will work equally as well as the Steeda brace we chose to use. All of these pan hard bar braces are much stronger than the wimpy stock brace and will improve your Mustangs handing. This upgrade is an easy to do straight forward direct replacement procedure. You just jack up the back end of your Mustang by lift or back onto ramps so vehicle is sitting on the ramps, then just remove the stock pan hard brace bar and put in the upgraded brace bar. I will tell you that you may need to use a rubber mallet to lightly tap the new brace bar into place on the passenger side so the bolt holes line up, as will be on the tight side. You could also put a little dab of grease on the outside of the bar, this will allow it to slide into place a little easier. Then torque all brace bar bolts to specs and your done!

We were not sure if we would notice a handling improvement with the new upgraded Steeda Pan Hard Bar Brace on the street, we thought only maybe on the track, but no it did show us a definite improvement on the street. Where we noticed the improvement was when you made a hard turn to the right, which with the stock brace dipped and made a weird squat due to the stock brace flexing, but with the stronger upgraded Steeda brace the dip and squat when cornering right hard, was almost gone. With many Mustangs making a hard left feels much better than making a hard right hand turn. This is where the stronger Steeda Pan Hard Bar Brace shows the improvement, when  cornering on a hard right hand turn.

So even if your Mustang is not tracked and is only street driven, you will definitely see an improvement in your 2011 – 2014 Mustang GT handling on the street. It makes the rear of the Mustang feel much more stable on hard cornering, especially when cornering hard on a right hand turn. This is a worthwhile upgrade that is not hard to install and the cost is cheap. We chose the Steeda Pan Hard Brace as it was the only pan hard bar brace we could find that was stronger than the stock pan hard bar brace and also light weight, it was actually the exact same weight as the stock pan hard bar brace, yet much stronger. This pan hard bar brace is a perfect upgrade for those of you who do not want to add any extra weight to your 2011 – 2014 Mustang GT, but still get the better handling benefits.

 

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Chevy Cobalt Drivers Door Rubbing Fender Fix

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With the Chevy Cobalt 2005 – 2010 one common issue many of these cars have is the driver’s door mid to bottom area rubbing the front fender. This door to fender rubbing issue has happen to our 2006 Cobalt. As well as many other Cobalt owners cars as it is a common issue. The general fix seems to be just take it to a body shop to adjust. Or take it back to the dealer to fix it. These places are totally fine to fix the issue. But will cost in my case $200 for something that can be very easily adjusted in your own drive way. This fix taking about one hour of your time to do.

Tools That Will Be Needed:

10mm socket and or wrench

Floor jack

Small piece of wood or thick rag to put between floor jack and bottom of door

2 washers

Larger flat head screw driver

Torx socket bit

The Cobalt Door Hinge Bolts Are Easy To Access

Now open your passenger or driver’s door (whichever door has the issue). See the hinge bolts that connect the door hinge to the door (the easy bolts to access). Now put a floor jack under the door just snug so door stays in place. Then loosen the two top bolts a few turns. Then loosen and remove the two bottom door to hinge bolts, (only removing one bolt at a time). Now put a washer in behind the hinge where it meets the door. Then put the bolt back in, do not tighten. You do this for each door hinge lower bolts.

By adding the washer behind the door hinge. Tt pushes the door slightly away from the fender at the bottom to middle area, creating more gap/space between the door and fender. So no rubbing will occur anymore. When both bolts have been done, tighten them to spec or just nice and snug.

The door now should not rub on fender when opening/closing. But will now not close perfect, it will slightly hit bottom of door latch. So must now using the torx bit. Loosen the two large torx bolts located on the car body of inner door area. You will need to use a large screw driver and lift up on an angle to adjust the door striker plate a little higher. This is done so door lines up properly when closed.

This may take a few tries to get it right. When the door closes with no resistance/rubbing and opens normally. You have it adjusted properly. Now just give the door latch a nice lube and your Chevy Cobalt is fixed and good to go.

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2011-2014 Mustang GT BMR Rear Upper Control Arm Review

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Installing a BMR rear upper control arm in your 2011-2014 Mustang GT can be a good upgrade, or for some people a not so good upgrade. The BMR upper control arm is much stronger than the stock upper control arm and comes with polyurethane bushings (greaseable spiral fluted polyurethane bushing) versus the stock control arm, which uses rubber bushings. Switching over to poly bushings has many benefits over the stock rubber bushings such as, reducing or eliminating wheel-hop, improve traction during straight-line acceleration, quicker launches for faster sixty foot times and better handling during cornering (corners sharper and more precise).

Now the upgrade to the BMR rear upper control arm while being a very good choice, may for some be a poor choice, this would be only if you cannot deal with a bit of gear whine noise after the install. Factory rubber bushing block noises, but poly bushing will allow noise to be heard easier inside your Mustang GT. We find the benefits of using the BMR upper control arm are much greater and not all that bad to deal with in the noise area. Just putting your radio on low will block these small noises so not much of a fuss to really deal with.

If you do decide to install the BMR rear upper control arm, it is highly recommended you also use their rear upper control arm mount which is much stronger than the stock piece and is an easy bolt-on using existing mounting holes, no welding, no drilling is required, direct replacement. If your Mustang GT is lowered, you would use the top hole in control arm mount and the bottom hole (hole closest to ground) for stock ride height Mustang GT. Always make sure to torque all nuts/bolts to proper specs and do use blue Loctite on all treads to keep thing in place. Also make sure that all is greased properly before driving the vehicle.

Now as far as doing this job yourself, I would not recommend it, you really need the Mustang up on a lift. To get at the control arm bolt that attaches to the rear end can be difficult, the rear end must drop down a certain amount or you will have a very tough time at it. Even though we could have done this job at home in the garage, we chose to take our 2012 Mustang GT over to a auto repair shop and save a ton of hassle. The shop only charged us $100, it took them about 45 minutes and we were on our way.

 

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2010 – 2012 Mustang Fog Light Removal Increases Air Flow

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Removing your 2010 – 2012 Mustang GT front grille fog lights will increase air flow for better performance and cooling. There are three good reasons to remove the front grille fog lights, the first being many of us find the fog lights make the Mustang GT look well, kind of ugly. The second reason to remove them is, you will now have much better air flow to the radiator and cold air intake, which adds up to better over-all performance. The third reason is by eliminating the fog lights, you will drop a few pounds of weight from the front end which is a good thing. Removing the front grille is fairly easy and should only take you about 20-30 min. There are a few tips we can give you to make the job go smoother and possibly save you some time and a few headaches.

Steps to remove your 2010 – 2012 Mustang GT front grille

Do this on a warm day as the grille is plastic and is less likely to break or crack when warm.

  • Open your hood and remove the top of radiator plastic cover.
  • Now disconnect each fog light so when removing the grille you do not break the connections.
  • Now to remove the grille, start by pulling firmly on each side one at a time pulling the retaining clips out (2 clips on each side), then just pull the bottom of grille so the retaining clips on bottom portion of grille pop out and grille is now removed. Note: when pulling the side of grille clips out, pull straight out or you may beak a clip, spraying the retaining clips with some silicone will make pulling out the side clips easier.

Now with the grille removed you can easily remove both fog lights and brackets. You could just re-install front grille as is or get some steel mesh screen to cover the fog light holes, which is what we recommend to do, as this will keep out debris while still allowing easy air flow through. We used mesh screen with ¼ inch square holes on our 2012 Mustang GT, some modified grilles being sold use mesh screen with ½ inch holes which is fine but does allow debris to get passed easier. After we cut and molded the mesh screen we painted the screen black, we then attached our screen to the inside area behind the fog light openings with some JB weld so holds on very secure.

To re-install your front grille, just line up the retaining clips on the bottom first then the sides and then firmly push all into place.

If you were to purchase a Mustang Boss 302 grille from Ford to replace your stock Mustang GT grille as a modification for improved air flow for cooling, improved air flow to your cold air system and small drop in weight, you would be looking at a cost of around $600 – $900 or so depending where you live. So by just modifying your stock 2010 – 2012 Mustang GT front grille you will get all the benefits without the high cost.

 

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Chevy Cobalt 2.2 K&N Air Filter Review

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Does replacing your stock air cleaner in a Chevy Cobalt 2.2 LT with a K&N re-usable air filter really improve horsepower or not? We tested out a K&N air filter to see if would give our 2006 Chevy Cobalt a horsepower increase. We have seen other reviews stating the horsepower increases, but really need to see for ourselves if actually does or does not increase the Cobalt 2.2 horsepower. The one point we do like about the K&N air filter is it is reusable and will last many thousands of miles/km.

Changing over to the K&N air filter is not hard to do, you just remove the top of your stock cold air assembly, remove stock air cleaner, and replace it with the K&N air cleaner. The K&N is already pre-oiled, you just drop it right in and your done. We were told that it would take the Cobalt’s computer a short time to adjust to the K&N filter increased air flow, about a few hours of driving time. After the install our Cobalt 2.2 started right up and we noticed a change in the sound of the 2.2 motor, sounded a little heavier than stock.

The Stock Air Filter Gave More Low End Power

We drove around for a few hours to let all adjust. We noticed the power of the car changed from having more power at lower rpms with stock air filter, to now having more power at higher rpms only, but less at the lower rpms. We also took note that our gas mileage was a little better than before. We took note of our 0-60 times when stock air cleaner was in the car. The 0-60 time with the K&N air filter was much slower, actually the whole car felt much slower than stock.

We left the K&N filter in for the winter, as the tires would not spin as easy as car had less torque down low than with stock filter installed. For winter driving this worked well, gave better gas mileage and less power, which made winter driving better. However when spring arrived we put the stock air filter back in and after a few hours of driving, our Chevy Cobalt once again had more horsepower, it had returned back to stock horsepower levels.

Our conclusion is the K&N air filter made our 2006 Chevy Cobalt 2.2 slower than stock, yet sounded heavier than stock. The K&N gave the car better gas mileage than the stock filter, so if gas mileage is your concern, the K&N is good, but if more torque/horsepower is your concern, the K&N actually makes the car slower. We think a aftermarket K&N cold air system, not just the filter, may improve horsepower, but that is a test for another time.

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