2011-2014 Mustang GT SR Sway Bar Kit Install

Looking to improve your 2011-2014 Mustang GT handling capabilities is as easy as installing an SR Performance sway bar kit. We chose to install the SR performance sway bar kit with the adjustable front bar just in case we need to fine tune our 2012 Mustang GT a little. We also chose SR performance sway bars for ease of install (direct stock replacements) even the rear end links look like stock, just beefier and of course with polyurethane bushings. We had no problems with installing this kit and our Mustang GT now corners much better than the stock setup, no leaning at all and traction off the line has actually improved as well.

SR Performance Sway Bar Kit Features:

  • Improves all around handling performance.
  • Eliminates body roll.
  • Kit Includes both front and rear sway bars.
  • Front sway bar is 3 Way-adjustable.
  • Rear sway bar is non-adjustable.
  • Front sway Bar: 36mm Tubular.
  • Rear sway Bar: 25mm Solid.

This kit will Fit 2011-2014 Mustang GT, V6 and 2011-2012 Shelby GT500

This kit Improves the handling performance of your S197 Mustang GT with reduce body roll through increased design stiffness over the stock factory sway bars. The result is a much more superior handling vehicle, flatter cornering and much better stability in all driving situations.

You can install the rear sway bar two ways, use the SR brackets or can easily just re-use your stock bolts/setup, we did it this way as we wanted to retain our stock bolts, we feel it’s a better setup and much easier to deal with.

3-Way Adjustable. The SR Performance Front Sway Bar features three (3) adjustment positions for fine tuning the handling balance of your Pony to suit your driving needs from mild to wild.

Superior Quality and Materials. SR Performance manufactures their Sway Bars from cold-formed, high-strength aircraft-grade steel for precision performance, and completes them in a black powder coat finish for great looks and long life. The front bar is a 36mm diameter tubular design, where the rear bar is 25mm diameter solid design.

The installation of this SR Performance Sway Bar Kit for 2012-2014 Mustang GT is pretty straight forward, nothing to hard that cannot be done in your own driveway. We just followed the supplied directions and had both front and rear sway bars installed in a few hours. We also choose to set up the front sway bar using the middle holes which is the street handling setting. This SR sway bar kit along with our Mickey Thompson Street Comp Tires, Koni Yellow Struts and Shocks has transformed our 2012 Mustang GT into a cornering beast!

 

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2011–2015 Mustang GT Royal Purple Engine Oil Review

You want the best engine oil for your 2011-2015 Mustang GT but don’t know which to choose, maybe we can help you decide. You definitely need to use synthetic engine oil if you want your 5.0 coyote to last a long time. Now of course we want to use the best, or close to the best synthetic engine oil in our Mustangs but there are many to choose from and reviews vary which confuses people on which brand to use.

Without going into the scientific make up of each brand of engine oil as there is plenty information on that out there already, we will just get to the point. The very best let’s say top 3 or 4 synthetic engine oils are not going to be much different from each other concerning friction, longevity and performance gains. All will give about same high grade engine protection (friction wear) and horsepower/torque gains, so to stress yourself out trying to figure out which brand of oil is slightly better is really not worth it, just choose one of the top brands and stick with it.

When it comes to choosing your brand of engine oil for your 2011-2015 Mustang GT you cannot go wrong using Royal Purple Synthetic Engine Oil or Castrol Synthetic Engine Oil. In virtually all testings of major brands of synthetic oil, these two excellent brands were always at the top. Both of these two engine oils stick to metal surfaces so your start up does not cause as much engine damage. We tested this out a few times on a few different Mustangs and found this to be true. Other top synthetic engine oils for example as the very popular Mobil 1 Synthetic oil failed to stick to the metal surface like Royal Purple or Castrol Synthetic, which is something that is of great benefit for the longevity and reliability of your Mustang GT 5.0 engine.

We routinely now use Royal Purple Synthetic Oil in all of our Mustangs and in our daily drivers as well. We chose to stick with Royal Purple over Castrol as we noticed when running Royal Purple our Mustang GT 5.0 engine ran noticeably quieter. Also it was seen on the dyno over and over that when running Royal Purple Synthetic Oil versus Castrol Synthetic Oil, the Royal Purple gave a tad more horsepower gain ( half a horsepower or .5 gain) This of course is not much but it still is better. Both of these excellent synthetic motor oils cost about the same, so just buy and use whichever is cheaper at the time and you simply cannot go wrong.

Yes, there may be a few other race oils out there that will be slightly better than these two top synthetic oils, but the cost will be much higher for very little gain and not to mention the fact that they will not be as easy to find, you will not find them at stores such as Walmart. You can find Royal Purple Synthetic Oil and Castrol Synthetic engine oils just about everywhere now, even at your local Walmart.

Now that you know which brand of synthetic oils to choose from for your 2011-2015 Mustang GT you should also use a good high quality engine oil filter to go along with your synthetic engine oil. You do not want to use the cheapest, you need a good high quality oil filter that passes all tests, this brings us to three excellent oil filters to choose from, K&N, Royal Purple and Wix, there simply is no better. We have been using K&N oil filters in all of our high performance Mustangs and other high performance vehicles for many years without any issues, so we stick with what works and we recommend you do the same.

 

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2012 Mustang GT Driveshaft Shop Aluminum Driveshaft Install

If you drive a 2011-2014 Mustang GT the aluminum driveshaft from the Driveshaft Shop is a much needed upgrade over your stock Mustang GT driveshaft. By Installing this excellent aluminum driveshaft your Mustang GT will benefit by losing 20 pounds of unsprung weight, plus gaining more reliability and strength over factory stock driveshaft. Another great benefit of the DSS aluminum driveshaft is your Mustang GT will rev faster and free up 8 Horsepower and 8 Foot Pounds of torque as seen on the dyno on our own 2012 Mustang GT. This along with the drop in unsprung weight equals a good performance gain and allows power to get to the rear wheels so much quicker. The DSS aluminum driveshaft fixes the weak link in your stock Mustang GT drive train, it’s simply a must have upgrade for all 2011-2014 Mustang GT.

Let’s take a look at the features of the Driveshaft Shop Aluminum One Piece Driveshaft:

  • Reduces rotating mass for faster ET’s.
  • Lighter plus much stronger than stock.
  • Lighter weight than stock 19 lbs vs 39 lbs.
  • 6061-T6 aluminum construction and is rated for up to 3450 ft lbs of torque and up to 900 horsepower.
  • 1350 front u-joint with flange to mount directly to the transmission and a 28 spline 108 mm 6-bolt rear CV joint made from an all new 300M material.
  • 3.5″ diameter for extra clearance.
  • High speed balanced up to 9500 RPM (revolutions per minute).
  • Good for stock or lowered 2011-2014 Mustang GT.
  • Quality product and perfect fitment.
  • Tuning not required for this upgrade.
  • Fits 2011-2014 Mustang GT Manual or Automatic and BOSS Mustangs.

To install the Driveshaft Shop One Piece Aluminum Driveshaft, you can take it to a qualified shop, or do it yourself as it is a straightforward fairly easy to do install. We chose to do the install ourselves at home in our garage. Here is a list of tools we used and the procedure to complete the install on our 2012 Mustang GT Automatic.

Tools Needed List:

  • Two low profile car ramps both same height, one for front and one for rear of vehicle.
  • One hydraulic low profile floor jack, four medium bottle jacks and 2 taller jack stands.
  • Tire chocks.
  • Torque wrench.
  • Breaker Bar 1/2 drive.
  • 12 mm 12 point socket 3/8 drive to remove transmission end flange bolts.
  • 8 mm bit socket 3/8 drive.
  • 7 mm bit socket 3/8 drive.
  • 10 mm socket.
  • 13 mm socket.
  • Various other sockets and wrenches to remove stock driveshaft and exhaust sections.
  • Rubber Mallet.
  • Blue Threadlocker (Medium strength).
  • Safety glasses.

DSS One Piece Aluminum Driveshaft Install Procedure:

  1. Drive vehicle up onto car ramps so front end is lifted up and block front tires with tire chocks if can.
  2. Using the hydraulic floor jack lift rear end of vehicle (lifting directly under rear end housing) sliding the other car ramps into place under the rear tires, now vehicle is lifted up and supported by ramps. Keep the floor jack in place under the rear end housing as will need to lift and lower rear slightly to loosen and tighten driveshaft bolts. We also put jack stands under the rear axle closest to the tires as can to give us some extra safety support. We still needed to lift our Mustang up a little higher to give more room to work, so we used the 4 bottle jacks positioned along the pass and driver side at front and rear jacking points to evenly lift car a tad higher when needed.
  3. Remove the passenger side part of exhaust at the clamps from just ahead of the factory H-Pipe (middle exhaust section) and the clamps joining the axle back to the middle exhaust section, then just move the exhaust over to one side, this will give you the room needed to get at all driveshaft bolts. No need to completely remove the exhaust from car.
  4. Next we removed the stock driveshaft. First remove the flange bolts on the pinion or rear of car, then remove the flange bolts from the transmission end of car. After those bolts have been removed, you then remove the middle section (bracket) of the driveshaft. There are 2 bolts holding middle section of the driveshaft to the bottom of car, you will need an extension to reach those 2 bolts and 2 spacers. Now you will need to pry or tap with your mallet the trans side flange of driveshaft to break it free. Be careful the stock driveshaft is heavy.Once the stock driveshaft is removed it’s time to install the DSS aluminum one piece driveshaft.
  5. First install the adapter onto the pinion side flange by lining up the holes, installing a few supplied short bolts just to hold in place, then tap in the supplied adapter evenly until seated using a rubber mallet.
  6. Now put in all bolts to hold in adapter and tighten them up. Then remove one bolt at a time and apply blue threadlocker, put bolts back in and tighten just snug. Do this to all the adapter bolts, then in a criss cross pattern torque all bolts to 57 ft-lbs. You will have to put key in ignition and turn to just accessories position, then put trans in neutral position and lift rear of car so tires can be turned by hand to rotate driveshaft to get at the bolts. When tightening bolts you will need to apply the parking brake, tighten bolts, then release parking brake when need to rotate drive shaft to reach other bolts.
  7. Now install the CV joint end of DSS driveshaft to adapter first, putting 2 of the longer bolts plus supplied washers in just to hold in place. Then on the trans side flange re-install 2 stock bolts just to hold in place. You may have to use some rope to tie up DSS driveshaft in the middle, this will help hold up the driveshaft while you put in the transmission end flange bolts.
  8. Now go back to the CV joint/pinion end and install all 6 bolts and supplied washers, tighten up snug, then remove one bolt at a time and apply blue thread locker, re-install bolts, then torque all bolts in a criss cross pattern to 57 ft-lbs.
  9. Now go to trans end flange and put in all 4 stock bolts just snug, then remove one bolt at a time and apply blue thread locker, then torque all 4 bolts in a criss cross pattern to 76 ft-lbs.
  10. Re-install your exhaust, torquing all clamp bolts to 40-45 ft-lbs. You have now completed the install.

All that is left to do, is just lower your 2011-2014 Mustang GT, then go test drive it and feel the difference your new DSS Aluminum One Piece Driveshaft gives your Mustang versus the old stock driveshaft, you will be pleased!

 

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2006 Chevy Cobalt Throttle Body Cleaning

If your 2006 Chevy Cobalt has over 30,000 km or 15,000 miles the throttle body will need some cleaning. When cleaning your 2006 up Chevy Cobalt you must do it correctly or you could do some harm to the throttle body or the settings. The actual cleaning part is easy to do, you just need to know how to do it. To clean your throttle body ONLY use throttle body cleaner, not carburetor cleaner. I recommend CRC Throttle Body Cleaner as it will not remove the stock throttle body protective coating, which helps to reduce the black gunk build up you usually see when looking into your throttle body.

There are two ways you can clean the throttle body. The first way is to actually remove the throttle body and then clean it, or the second way, which is to leave it on the car and clean it. If you have never cleaned your 2006 Chevy Cobalt throttle body and it now has over 100,000 km or 60,000 miles, it might be best to remove it and thoroughly clean it. Our 2006 Chevy Cobalt has just over 38,000 km, so we are going to leave it on the motor to clean it.

Some tools and supplies you will need are:

Flat Head Screwdriver

Soft bristle toothbrush

CRC Throttle Body Cleaner

Pliers

Rags

You start your 2006 Chevy Cobalt throttle body clean by removing the oil fill cap and the plastic engine cover (put fill cap back in place) Then you remove the plastic piece that attaches to the throttle body by removing a plastic clip on drivers side, then loosening the clamp that attaches to the throttle body again on drivers side, then loosening the clamp to the air cleaner assembly, then using your pliers remove the rubber hose clamp that attaches to the motor (clamp closest to the motor) on the passenger side. Now you can just lift off the plastic air intake piece from the throttle body.

Before you begin cleaning your Cobalt throttle body make sure the vehicle has no key in the ignition. Now take your toothbrush soak it in throttle body cleaner and lightly scrub away the black gunk inside the throttle body. To get between the throttle body and the throttle body butterfly valve, you just push the valve open with your finger, but only just a crack, just enough so the toothbrush bristles can get between and clean no more as may change throttle body settings. Now just wipe all clean carefully with a clean rag. You may have to spray some throttle body cleaner onto your rag and wipe all a few times. Do not spray the throttle body cleaner directly into the Cobalt throttle body.

After all is clean you can re-assemble what you removed. You should clean everything inside and out as you put it all back in place. This would also be a good time to check your air filter and replace if necessary. It would also be a good time to remove your mass air flow sensor from the air filter assembly and clean it with mass air flow sensor cleaner (spray inside it to clean the wires), Do Not clean it with carburetor cleaner or throttle body cleaner it could harm it, use only mass air flow sensor cleaner.

After all is clean and back in place, start your 2006 Chevy Cobalt and let it warm up and idle for about 15 min and you are done.

 

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2004 Mustang GT Review Specs And Build Up!

The 2004 Mustang GT is a very good car in stock form, see review, specs and performance build up. The 2004 Mustang GT Review is basically just a carry over from the 2003 Mustang GT. The base model Mustangs packed a 3.8L V6 engine rated at 193-horsepower along with 16-inch cast aluminum wheels, while both the Mustang GT and the Mach 1 Mustangs packed the larger 4.6L V8 engine. The Mach 1 was rated at 305 horsepower and 310 lb./ft. torque and the GT models were rated at 260 horsepower and 302 lb./ft. torque (the Cobra had a whopping 390-horsepower, 4.6-liter V8) Also both the GT and Mach 1 stangs featured 17 inch cast aluminum wheels on all four corners.

2004 GT Mustang Horsepower : 260 hp @ 5250 rpm Torque : 302 lb-ft @ 4000 rpm, Redline 6000 rpm.

Top speed : 140 mph(estimated) 0-60 mph : 6.1 sec. 0-¼ mile : 14.2 sec @ 98.0 mph 60-0 braking distance : 135 ft 200 ft skidpad : 0.84 g

Curb Weight : 3273-3317 lbs (coupe), 3429-3477 lbs (convertible) Overall length: 183.5 in. Wheelbase : 101.3 in. Overall Width : 73.1 in. Height : 53.1 in.(coupe), 53.5 in.(convertible) 4.6L

SOHC EFI V-8 260hp ° Displacement (cc):   4605 Bore and stroke (mm):   91.4 x 91.4 Compression ratio:   9.4:1 Max. Torque: 302 lb/ft at 4,000 rpm Redline 6000 rpm. Coolant capacity (quarts): 14.6 4.6L

DOHC EFI V-8 390hp Displacement (cc): 4601 Bore and stroke (mm):   90.2 x 90.0  Compression ratio: 8.5:1 Max. Torque: 390 lb/ft at 3,500 rpm, Redline: 6500 rpm

Suspension Front:  MacPherson struts w/ seperate coil springs on lower arms and stabilizer bar. 7×8 inch stock wheels with 5.72″ backspacing, which works out to about +31mm offset.

Gear Ratios:

V6 Model V8      Model Cobra
1st 2.84:1 3.35:1 2.66:1
2nd 1.55:1 1.99:1 1.78:1
3rd 1.00:1 1.33:1 1.30:1
4th 0.70:1 1.00:1 1.00:1
5th NA 0.68:1 0.80:1
Final Drive 2.29:1 3.55:1 (6th      Gear)0.63:1
(Final Drive)3.55:1

2004 Mustang GT Popular Aftermarket Performance Wheels And Tires To Up-Grade For Better Performance:

  • Cobra wheel and tire packages which consist of front 7×9 wheels with 275/40/17 tires and 17 x 10.50 rear wheels with 315/35/17 tires
  • For even a little better handling for your 1994 to 20004 Mustang GT you can go with front 18×9 wheels with 265/35/18 tires and rear 18×10 wheels with 385/35/18 tires. This package will give your Mustang GT better handling due to less tire sidewall.

Here are the basic wheel backspacing guidelines for your 94-2004 Mustang GT

7″ width wheels – use 4.5″ backspace

8″ width wheels – use 5-5.5″ backspace

9″ width wheels – use 6″ backspace

10-10.5″ width wheels – use 6.5″ backspace

2004 Mustang GT Performance Bolt On Parts:

The most common enhancement for the 4.6L V8s is a cold air intake (CAI) system which can give you up to a quick 20-30 hp with a tune                                           
Exhaust system, along with Long Tube Headers, Cat Back, performance x-pipe or H-pipe. This complete package will give you Mustang GT about a solid 30 HP gain.
New throttle body or plenum, works great along with your cold air intake system giving an average gain of about 10 hp.
Rear gears, usually 3.73 or 4.10 are the best choices, but in some cases even going to a 4.30 rear end gears is ok. 
Brake kits, rotors and or just pads will all improve your Mustangs braking.
Light weight aluminum driveshaft stock replacement give about a 29 lb weight drop equals gain of about 12hp and 14 ft lbs torque
Stickier tires such as Nitto NT555 ultra-high performance summer tires for all around better traction and handling.
SCT tuner to tie all performance parts together to work as a tuned package (can give you another 15-30 hp out of your upgrades) so is well worth it. 

The 2004 Mustang GT is an excellent car in stock form and responds vey good to most up-grades. The cost is lower than most cars to get a good solid build-up, so you simply cannot go wrong with 2004 Mustang GT.

 

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2011-2014 Mustang GT Ford Racing Ignition Coils Review

Installing Ford Racing Ignition Coils on your 2011-2014 Mustang GT is an easy to do job that will bring back lost horsepower and torque. If your Mustang GT has over 35,000 km your ignition coils are slowly getting weaker putting out less voltage, which means loss of horsepower and torque, even your gas mileage will suffer as well as throttle response. The solution is to replace your factory ignition coils with high quality Ford Racing Stock Replacement Ignition Coil Packs, which will definitely bring back lost horsepower and torque and give you crisper throttle response.

Now we know there are aftermarket ignition coils from sources as Accel, MSD, Performance Distributors, GMS, SR, as well as many others, who claim if you replace your stock ignition coils with theirs, you will get a nice boost in horsepower and torque. There are pros and cons to using these aftermarket ignition coil packs which we will reveal to you so you can make the best decision when replacing your 2011-2014 Mustang GT ignition coils. Yes, switching to an aftermarket ignition coils will bump up your horsepower and torque, but only by a few, as seen with Accel Super Coil On Plug Kit which showed 6 hp and 4 ft/lbs torque gain on a totally stock 2011 Mustang GT. This is all fine but at what cost, as the aftermarket coil packs are twice the cost of Ford Racing Coil Packs and from the numerous reviews we read it seems the aftermarket coil packs are not very reliable. We have read about some of the aftermarket coil packs failing within 6 months to 1 year, needing replacement. Most would need to take their Mustang GT to a shop to find out which coil pack or packs went bad, costing more money. Many who experienced aftermarket coil pack failures, just switched back to new stock Ford ignition coil packs as was not worth the headaches of dealing with failed coil packs.

Interestingly enough, when we installed the Ford Racing Stock Replacement Coil Packs on two Mustang GT’s, our 2012 Mustang GT which is modified had picked up some lost horsepower and torque to the tune of 5 HP and 4 ft/lbs torque and the other 2011 Mustang GT which is totally stock, picked up 3 HP and 2 ft/lbs torque as revealed by the dyno. Another good point to mention is that the Ford Racing Ignition Coils are good for a stock Mustang GT, as well as a modified Mustang GT pushing up to 700 HP with no issues. Really the choice comes down to you, do you want a few more horsepower and torque at a higher cost that may come with reliability issues, or a smaller gain in horsepower and torque, less cost, and no reliability issues. We decided to stick with the Ford Racing Ignition Coils Packs as our 2012 Mustang GT saw a good gain in horsepower and torque, better throttle response and with Ford Racing high quality stock replacement parts, we will have no reliability issues, so we never have to worry about it.

So if reliability is not an issue for your 2011-2014 Mustang GT it is possible to gain more horsepower using an aftermarket ignition coil on plug kit and if you were to open up your spark plug gaps a little more, you would see a few more horsepower and torque gains, the choice is really up to you!

 

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2011-2014 Mustang GT Swarr Bar Support Brace Install

If you drive a 2011-2014 Mustang GT and want better traction, faster 0-60 times and a stronger 8.8 rear end, the Swarr Bar Support Brace is for you. We installed the Swarr rear end support brace on our 2012 Mustang GT in about two hours and are very happy with this product. It did increase our traction resulting in faster 0-60 times, seemed to even help our 2012 Mustang GT with slightly better handling around corners. Of course the main thing about this support brace is to strengthen the factory ford 8.8 rear end, so the axle tubes will not twist nearly as easy under more horsepower and torque than what the car came with from the factory.

Before you start to install the Swarr Bar Support Brace here are the tools we needed to do the job.

Set of low profile car ramps.

9/16 wrench.

9/16 socket.

3/4 socket.

Ratchet.

Long Rachet/Breaker Bar.

Rubber Mallet.

Power Drill and Drill bit (Titanium).

Long round file (to file edges from drilled holes).

Vice Grips (pliers).

Goggles or face shield (wear when drilling to protect from metal shavings).

Silicon Spray.

Stiff Bristle Brush.

You first need to back your Mustang GT up onto a set of car ramps, just high enough to easily lay under the rear end area as you will need to drill 2 holes (one on each side) on drives shaft side of rear end housing. We started off by cleaning the 8.8 rear end of all loose material and dirt using a stiff bristle brush and then wiping all nice and clean especially where the Swarr Bar Support Brace clamps will be fastened too.

We then removed the 2 weights (one on each side of rear end) located on each inner end of rear end on the inside portion of lower control arm area. Each weight is about 2.5 lbs and is held in place with a single bolt, use a 3/4 inch socket to remove them. After you remove these bolts clean the bolt holes good as this is where each end of the Swarr Brace will attach to. You may have to bang the brace into place using a rubber mallet to line up the holes to put the bolts through. Then install those bolts but do not tighten. These bolts will now hold on the Swarr Bar Support Brace. To fit the bottom clam shells of the brace to the rear end axle tubes is a tight fit and you will most likely have to hit them into place using the rubber mallet so they are nice and snug against the axle tubes.

Next you will install the upper clam shells on the top side of the housing and bolt together with the bottom clam shells, leaving them loose for now. Now make sure the front bars are against the ears on the front pinion end of the rear housing, then drill your holes through the cast iron to mount the front section of the Swarr Bar Support Brace. You will need a 7/16 titanium drill bit to easily drill these two holes. After they are drilled clean up the edges with a long round file, put your bolts through and tighten just until the brace is touching the housing ears.

Now tighten all in this sequence. Start with the clam shell bolts, tighten evenly until the ears bend at least 1/8 inch, then tighten the two bolts nice and snug you drilled on the housing ears, then tighten nice and snug the two outer side bolts where the axle weights used to be. You have now completed the install of your Swarr Bar Support Brace for your 2011-2014 Mustang GT.

 

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2011-2014 Mustang GT Easy Horsepower Trick

The 2011-2014 Mustang GT in stock form has an easy to fix flaw that will free up a few horsepower and is inexpensive to do. We have heard this problem happening to many 2011-2014 Mustang GT owners and it has happened off and on with our 2012 Mustang GT, so we found an easy solution that frees up some lost horsepower as well. Just about all Mustang GT owners experience the 5.0 motor cutting out, hesitating, or actually stalling in hot weather driving. The cause if all else is functioning properly, is your fuel is getting way too hot!

You know how hot it gets under the hood of your Mustang GT, it’s very hot. Now your fuel line comes up from the drivers side, then along the top side of the motor running straight behind your throttle body towards the middle of your motor to your injectors. This route for the fuel lines allows the fuel to get very hot and causes the cutting out, stalling, hesitation and of course loss of horsepower. We took a look at this problem and applied an old racers trick to protect the fuel lines better from the high heat. After we did this very simple easy procedure on our 2012 Mustang GT, it does not hesitate, cut out, or stall in hot weather driving and it is noticeably more powerful in hot weather driving versus before protecting those hot fuel lines.

To do this easy fuel line protection procedure on your 2011-2014 Mustang GT, start by removing your engine shock tower brace if you have one, then remove your engine cover by pulling it straight up. Now you will see your fuel line come up the back side of the motor on the drivers side, then along the top of your motor going just behind the throttle body towards the middle of the motor splitting into two sections, one for passenger side and one for drivers side fuel rail/injectors. You want to start at the drivers side back of the motor and cover the fuel lines as best you can with heat shielding material/tubing, do this all the way to the top of motor area where the fuel lines split into two. This will dramatically reduce the temperature of the fuel entering the motor and cooler fuel makes more power.

The heat shielding material can be purchased at most speed shops in a heat shield tubing type cover used for covering fuel lines, wires etc. Or you can just buy the basic plastic tubing to cover wires etc and then get some heat shield special tape and wrap those tubing covers yourself, then just cut the slit all the way down with an exacto knife or other, install around your fuel lines and your done. You would be amazed at the difference this procedure can make and of course it will help to further protect those important fuel lines. This is an easy to do worthwhile trick that all of you 2011-2014 Mustang GT owners can benefit from.

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2011-2014 Mustang GT Kooks Axle Back Exhaust Install

Installing a Kooks Axle Back exhaust on your 2011-2014 Mustang GT is not too difficult and should take about two to three hours to complete. We chose to install the Kooks axle back on our 2012 Mustang GT, as we loved the nice deep tone they produce, without being to loud. The Kooks axle back is just a little louder than the stock ford axle back and the fact it is much lighter than the factory ford Mustang GT axle back system is a big plus. Dropping some weight off your 2011-2014 Mustang GT is always a good thing in our books, and of course a few extra ponies gained as well certainly cannot hurt.

We started our install by backing our 2012 Mustang GT up on a set of low profile car ramps and set the emergency brake, plus blocked the front wheels for added safety. Next we tied up the stock axle back on the drivers side and passenger side, so when all is ready to come off it will not fall. The stock axle back (muffler assembly) is on the heavy side and if fell could hurt you, so be very careful. Next we took a large flat head screwdriver and broke off the small welded on tabs that hold the ball clamps in place that attach the axle back to the mid pipe/cat back part of the exhaust. Once these were easily broken off, we took off the clamps attaching the axle back to the mid pipe/cat back part of the exhaust altogether and set them aside for re-use when installing the new Kooks axle back system. Then we removed all the bolts from the hanger brackets/rubber grommets that also hold the axle back in place. Once all bolts were removed from the brackets (did same for drivers and passengers side) the axle back assembly came down, luckily only a little, as remember we had tied up the front portion of the axle back, so as to not fall on top of us.

We then used some fine sandpaper to clean up the mid pipe/cat back attaching points for the new Kooks axle back system. We also cleaned up all bolt threads and put some anti-seize on the threads of the two ball clamp bolts to be re-used. We then removed the brackets/rubber grommets from the stock axle back assembly and installed it onto our new high performance Kooks axle back assembly. We then just put all back together in reverse order and lining up the exhaust tips perfectly so was even on both drivers side and passenger side (took a while to get them exactly the same). When all was lined up to our liking, we then tightened the ball clamps to 40 ft/lbs torque, or nice and tight is fine. It is so much easier to install the Kooks axle back then removing the stock axle back, as the Kooks assembly is smaller so more room, you can easily get to all bolts to tighten.

After all was installed we fired up the Mustang and let it idle for a while to possibly let the computer re-learn, as the axle back flows much better than the stock ford axle back. The Kooks axle back sounded just right, not to loud, but loud enough that others know this Mustang GT mean business. Now people look every time we drive by, as they hear our Mustang GT approaching.

Kooks Axle Back Pros:

– Very small gain in performance about 4-5 HP/Ft lbs torque and only seen if have a tune.

– Drops about 16 pounds of weight total (Kooks axle back weighs 29 lbs total versus stock ford at 45 lbs total)

– Very nice deep sounding tone, not to loud and sounds like a Mustang GT should.

If you want a deeper sounding exhaust sound that is not to loud, just a little louder than the stock Mustang GT , yet sounds much meaner and definitely more powerful sounding, the Kooks Axle Back exhaust for all 2011-2014 Mustang GT is for you!

Tools We Needed For Kooks Axle Back Install:

13 mm wrench

15 mm wrench

3/8 ratchet

3/8 extension

13 mm deep socket

15 mm socket

Large flat screwdriver

WD-40 or Silicon Spray

Car Ramps

Large Pliers

Silicon Spray

Safety Glasses

Rags

The tools needed may vary slightly from 2011-2012 Mustang GT and 2013-2014 Mustang GT.

 

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2011-2014 Mustang GT Easy Brake Upgrade

Some people find the 2011-2014 Mustang GT stock brakes to be adequate for their daily driving needs, but some of you want better than stock braking. If your Mustang GT has the optional Brembo Brakes, you can still upgrade them to work even better with a few simple excellent upgrades.

If the stock 2011-2014 Mustang brakes are just not good enough for you and want an easy brake upgrade that will make your Mustang stop on a dime, all you need to do is upgrade your brake pads and brake rotors with direct replacement high performance pieces. This is exactly what we did to our 2012 Mustang GT as we were not all that happy with the stock braking setup.

The first step to having better brakes for your Mustang GT, is to switch out your stock Mustang GT brake pads for better brake pads. You could simply just do this upgrade alone and have better than stock braking, or you can add another easy braking upgrade along with this as performance rotors, which will even more so enhance your stopping power. This next upgrade is to add four better than stock high performance brake rotors. Just switching from stock brake pads to performance brake pads is OK, but those brake pads need something better than your stock rotors to grab onto, which will assist greatly to bring your Mustang GT to a stop much faster.

There are a few direct replacement brake kits that give you new performance brake pads and rotors, such as kits by Power Stop, Hawk Performance, Ford Racing, Roush, Baer etc. Buying a kit will usually be more expensive than just buying upgraded performance brake pads and 4 new performance brake rotors separately. For our own 2012 Mustang GT we put on 4 new (front and rear) performance brake rotors DBA X-Gold Series Cross Drilled/Slotted Rotors. These rotors are true high quality and built to last. Along with these rotors we tried a few different performance brake pads such as Hawk Performance HPS Brake Pads, Hawk Performance Ceramic Brake Pads, Stop Tech Pads, but due to a few issues we did not like about these pads (too much brake dust or too much brake squeal/noise) we decided to go back and use new stock Mustang GT brake pads from Ford, as these pads were in our opinion all around just better for street use. The stock brake pads worked great along with the DBA X-Gold Series Cross Drilled/Slotted Rotors, made the car feel like we had race brakes, gave a huge improvement over the stock braking setup.

Our 2012 Mustang Easy Brake Upgrade List:

1- Added 4 new DBA X-Gold Series Cross Drilled/Slotted Rotors (American Muscle).

2- Added 4 new stock replacement Mustang GT brake pads (Ford).

3- Added 4 new stock direct replacement Mustang GT brake lines (Ford).

The main improvement in this braking upgrade was of course the DBA X-Gold Series Cross Drilled/Slotted Rotors which gave our Mustang GT about a 20% better braking performance. These rotors give a bigger initial bit to bring you to a stop much faster and they also have a special design which improves heat dissipation, meaning less brake fade.

If you are driving your Mustang GT at the track, you will want to use different brake pads than the stock ones such as a ceramic pad. These will usually make more noise as we found out, but they do stop harder with less fade. This upgrade we feel is best left to track only, it could get annoying in daily driving, but of course that is up to you to decide for yourself.

While the stock 2011-2014 Mustang GT brakes are ok, doing this very easy brake upgrade for your Mustang GT only takes a few hours and is well worth the effort, we think you will find this brake upgrade a good solid beneficial improvement for your Mustang GT.

 

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