Tag Archives: 2011-2014 Mustang GT

2011-2014 Mustang GT Weight Reduction Tips

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Want some excellent 2011-2014 Mustang GT weight reduction tips that will help shed a few pounds off your Mustang GT, making it faster and more nimble. The 2011-2014 Mustang GT are on the heavy side which is not so bad, if you love the car right off the show room floor. However there are few of us that want the car to be faster and more nimble. Weight loss is just another way to get it easy.

Some aftermarket parts that add more performance if chosen will also have a weight reduction benefit. This makes good sense to choose your aftermarket up grades wisely. On the other hand, there are weight reduction tips that are actually free sort of speaking. All you just need is to make an adjustment.

How To Drop Some Pounds Off Your Mustang GT

So now we get to the good part. How to drop some pounds off your 2011-2014 Mustang GT that are not that hard to do. Many of us are not willing to put in an expensive aluminum k frame, or switch the hood and trunk lid to a lighter aluminum part. That would be looked at last as will involve big expense. Also most people cannot do this by themselves and will require it to go to a shop. This being as needs to be painted on so on, which again adds to the cost even more so.

Most of us want to do stuff that will drop some weight from our Mustangs. It must be easy so that can possibly be done fairly easily by ourselves. Or by a shop, but not at a great expense. Here is a list of items that most Mustang GT owners can do to drop some weight from their vehicle. These are fairly easily and without a great expense.

Weight Reduction List

Mustang GT Wheels: Replace your heavy factory wheels with nicer looking and lighter aluminum wheels. Mustang GT owners eventually want to replace their factory wheels to give their Mustang a look of its own. Just weigh your factory wheels and then switch to a lighter wheel. Then you will also gain the benefit of the weight reduction.

Mustang GT Axle Back Exhaust: Switching to an aftermarket Axle Back Exhaust is another very popular mod many Mustang GT owners do. The main purpose of changing your stock axle back exhaust is to have a more muscle car sounding mustang. Another benefit is found in regards to weight reduction by switching over to an aftermarket axle back exhaust. Stock Mustang GT axle back exhaust very heavy. A few of the aftermarket axle back exhaust systems are much lighter than stock. Some up to about a 29 pound weight drop over the stock system.

Switching Stock Driveshaft To An Aluminum One Piece Driveshaft Is Good For A Tenth Faster

Mustang GT Aluminum One Piece Driveshaft: Stock driveshaft in all 2011-2014 Mustang GT are very heavy weighing in at about 40 pounds. By replacing it with a one piece aluminum driveshaft, you will drop about 20 pounds of weight off your mustang. Doing this also adds a little power to get to the rear wheels and about a tenth faster. Weight reduction is only the side effect of switching to a aluminum driveshaft. You also will now have a much stronger than stock driveshaft. Stock driveshafts have been known to twist when adding more power or slicks to your mustang GT. It’s a no brainer, it’s a great upgrade to do and worth the money.

Mustang Aluminum Radiator: Change out your stock heavy radiator and replace it with a high quality aluminum one. There available from aftermarket sources like Ford Racing, which will shed about 10 pounds of weight off your front end. This will make your Mustang GT run a little cooler at the same time. Replacing your stock radiator and stock radiator support with the aftermarket lighter ones at the same time is best. You can drop 20 pounds of weight right there. This weight comes off the front end of your Mustang, which is great.

Dropping Weight Is Like Adding HP, More If It’s Rotating Weight Dropped

Mustang GT Seats: In this area of weight reduction you can get some from the removal of your Mustangs rear seat. It’s called a rear seat delete kit and is available from places like American Muscle. Will usually drop about 30-40 pounds of unwanted weight. Some of you may not want to remove your rear seats, is more of a procedure for racing.  Another option you can do to drop some weight is to replace your front stock seats. Install a set of lighter racing seats. This could drop up to 60 pounds of weight. Again this procedure is a more all-out race option, but it can be good for the street as well.

AC Compressor + AC Condenser: Remove the AC Compressor and AC Condenser plus lines and bolts, drop 22 lbs of weight off the front end. AC Compressor plus lines and bolts and belt remove 15 lbs and AC Condenser plus lines and bolts remove 7 lbs. So you drop 22 lbs weight total, gain a little hp from weight loss and ac belt removal. You also increase your radiator and trans cooler cooling. This happens as you removed blockage to increase air flow to them. Like magic you also increase the air flow to the starter as well as the AC Compressor blocks it a well.

Mustang Radiator Support: Replacing your stock radiator support with a stronger and lighter one such as ones from Steeda or BMR. You can drop about 10 pounds of unwanted weight from the front of your Mustang GT.

Free Weight Reduction For Your Mustang GT

Here is a totally free way to reduce weight from your Mustang GT that many people never realize. Gasoline weighs 7 pounds per gallon. so by just running a half tank of gas versus a full tank of gas, you remove weight. You can really feel the difference in how your Mustang GT corners, brakes and accelerates when doing this.

Other Misc Weight Reduction Tips For Your Mustang GT

There are other ways to shed a few pounds here and there. Switching to lighter than stock rotors. Replacing your front sway bar with a lighter one. These will only drop a few pounds and may not be worth the expense for some

Replacing your stock battery with a light weight racing battery is another option to drop about 10 more pounds of weight. This can be an expensive weight drop. Light weight racing batteries can be very expensive. If you can find one, a light weight high torque starter will drop an average of about 8 pounds of weight. At the time of this writing, I have not seen any available for the 2011-2014 Mustang GT.

One last weight reduction tip you can do that will drop about 30 pounds of weight. Simply remove your spare tire and junk from the trunk. Which is great is just going drag racing or other. Remember to put a can of flat tire repair and possibly a foot air pump in your trunk just in case. It may save you if by some chance you do get a flat tire.

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2011 – 2014 Mustang GT Pan Hard Bar Brace Upgrade

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Replacing the stock Mustang Pan Hard Bar Brace with an upgraded one will improve your 2011 – 2014 Mustang GT handing. We choose to replace our stock 2012 Mustang GT Pan Hard Bar Brace with a better one from Steeda. Other companies that offer these upgraded braces such as BMR, Whiteline, RTR and so on will work equally as well as the Steeda brace we chose to use. All of these pan hard bar braces are much stronger than the wimpy stock brace and will improve your Mustangs handing. This upgrade is an easy to do straight forward direct replacement procedure. You just jack up the back end of your Mustang by lift or back onto ramps so vehicle is sitting on the ramps, then just remove the stock pan hard brace bar and put in the upgraded brace bar. I will tell you that you may need to use a rubber mallet to lightly tap the new brace bar into place on the passenger side so the bolt holes line up, as will be on the tight side. You could also put a little dab of grease on the outside of the bar, this will allow it to slide into place a little easier. Then torque all brace bar bolts to specs and your done!

We were not sure if we would notice a handling improvement with the new upgraded Steeda Pan Hard Bar Brace on the street, we thought only maybe on the track, but no it did show us a definite improvement on the street. Where we noticed the improvement was when you made a hard turn to the right, which with the stock brace dipped and made a weird squat due to the stock brace flexing, but with the stronger upgraded Steeda brace the dip and squat when cornering right hard, was almost gone. With many Mustangs making a hard left feels much better than making a hard right hand turn. This is where the stronger Steeda Pan Hard Bar Brace shows the improvement, when  cornering on a hard right hand turn.

So even if your Mustang is not tracked and is only street driven, you will definitely see an improvement in your 2011 – 2014 Mustang GT handling on the street. It makes the rear of the Mustang feel much more stable on hard cornering, especially when cornering hard on a right hand turn. This is a worthwhile upgrade that is not hard to install and the cost is cheap. We chose the Steeda Pan Hard Brace as it was the only pan hard bar brace we could find that was stronger than the stock pan hard bar brace and also light weight, it was actually the exact same weight as the stock pan hard bar brace, yet much stronger. This pan hard bar brace is a perfect upgrade for those of you who do not want to add any extra weight to your 2011 – 2014 Mustang GT, but still get the better handling benefits.

 

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2011-2014 Mustang GT BMR Rear Upper Control Arm Review

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Installing a BMR rear upper control arm in your 2011-2014 Mustang GT can be a good upgrade, or for some people a not so good upgrade. The BMR upper control arm is much stronger than the stock upper control arm and comes with polyurethane bushings (greaseable spiral fluted polyurethane bushing) versus the stock control arm, which uses rubber bushings. Switching over to poly bushings has many benefits over the stock rubber bushings such as, reducing or eliminating wheel-hop, improve traction during straight-line acceleration, quicker launches for faster sixty foot times and better handling during cornering (corners sharper and more precise).

Now the upgrade to the BMR rear upper control arm while being a very good choice, may for some be a poor choice, this would be only if you cannot deal with a bit of gear whine noise after the install. Factory rubber bushing block noises, but poly bushing will allow noise to be heard easier inside your Mustang GT. We find the benefits of using the BMR upper control arm are much greater and not all that bad to deal with in the noise area. Just putting your radio on low will block these small noises so not much of a fuss to really deal with.

If you do decide to install the BMR rear upper control arm, it is highly recommended you also use their rear upper control arm mount which is much stronger than the stock piece and is an easy bolt-on using existing mounting holes, no welding, no drilling is required, direct replacement. If your Mustang GT is lowered, you would use the top hole in control arm mount and the bottom hole (hole closest to ground) for stock ride height Mustang GT. Always make sure to torque all nuts/bolts to proper specs and do use blue Loctite on all treads to keep thing in place. Also make sure that all is greased properly before driving the vehicle.

Now as far as doing this job yourself, I would not recommend it, you really need the Mustang up on a lift. To get at the control arm bolt that attaches to the rear end can be difficult, the rear end must drop down a certain amount or you will have a very tough time at it. Even though we could have done this job at home in the garage, we chose to take our 2012 Mustang GT over to a auto repair shop and save a ton of hassle. The shop only charged us $100, it took them about 45 minutes and we were on our way.

 

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2011-2014 Mustang GT SR Sway Bar Kit Install

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Looking to improve your 2011-2014 Mustang GT handling capabilities is as easy as installing an SR Performance sway bar kit. We chose to install the SR performance sway bar kit with the adjustable front bar just in case we need to fine tune our 2012 Mustang GT a little. We also chose SR performance sway bars for ease of install (direct stock replacements) even the rear end links look like stock, just beefier and of course with polyurethane bushings. We had no problems with installing this kit and our Mustang GT now corners much better than the stock setup, no leaning at all and traction off the line has actually improved as well.

SR Performance Sway Bar Kit Features:

  • Improves all around handling performance.
  • Eliminates body roll.
  • Kit Includes both front and rear sway bars.
  • Front sway bar is 3 Way-adjustable.
  • Rear sway bar is non-adjustable.
  • Front sway Bar: 36mm Tubular.
  • Rear sway Bar: 25mm Solid.

This kit will Fit 2011-2014 Mustang GT, V6 and 2011-2012 Shelby GT500

This kit Improves the handling performance of your S197 Mustang GT with reduce body roll through increased design stiffness over the stock factory sway bars. The result is a much more superior handling vehicle, flatter cornering and much better stability in all driving situations.

You can install the rear sway bar two ways, use the SR brackets or can easily just re-use your stock bolts/setup, we did it this way as we wanted to retain our stock bolts, we feel it’s a better setup and much easier to deal with.

3-Way Adjustable. The SR Performance Front Sway Bar features three (3) adjustment positions for fine tuning the handling balance of your Pony to suit your driving needs from mild to wild.

Superior Quality and Materials. SR Performance manufactures their Sway Bars from cold-formed, high-strength aircraft-grade steel for precision performance, and completes them in a black powder coat finish for great looks and long life. The front bar is a 36mm diameter tubular design, where the rear bar is 25mm diameter solid design.

The installation of this SR Performance Sway Bar Kit for 2012-2014 Mustang GT is pretty straight forward, nothing to hard that cannot be done in your own driveway. We just followed the supplied directions and had both front and rear sway bars installed in a few hours. We also choose to set up the front sway bar using the middle holes which is the street handling setting. This SR sway bar kit along with our Mickey Thompson Street Comp Tires, Koni Yellow Struts and Shocks has transformed our 2012 Mustang GT into a cornering beast!

 

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2012 Mustang GT Driveshaft Shop Aluminum Driveshaft Install

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If you drive a 2011-2014 Mustang GT the aluminum driveshaft from the Driveshaft Shop is a much needed upgrade over your stock Mustang GT driveshaft. By Installing this excellent aluminum driveshaft your Mustang GT will benefit by losing 20 pounds of unsprung weight, plus gaining more reliability and strength over factory stock driveshaft. Another great benefit of the DSS aluminum driveshaft is your Mustang GT will rev faster and free up 8 Horsepower and 8 Foot Pounds of torque as seen on the dyno on our own 2012 Mustang GT. This along with the drop in unsprung weight equals a good performance gain and allows power to get to the rear wheels so much quicker. The DSS aluminum driveshaft fixes the weak link in your stock Mustang GT drive train, it’s simply a must have upgrade for all 2011-2014 Mustang GT.

Let’s take a look at the features of the Driveshaft Shop Aluminum One Piece Driveshaft:

  • Reduces rotating mass for faster ET’s.
  • Lighter plus much stronger than stock.
  • Lighter weight than stock 19 lbs vs 39 lbs.
  • 6061-T6 aluminum construction and is rated for up to 3450 ft lbs of torque and up to 900 horsepower.
  • 1350 front u-joint with flange to mount directly to the transmission and a 28 spline 108 mm 6-bolt rear CV joint made from an all new 300M material.
  • 3.5″ diameter for extra clearance.
  • High speed balanced up to 9500 RPM (revolutions per minute).
  • Good for stock or lowered 2011-2014 Mustang GT.
  • Quality product and perfect fitment.
  • Tuning not required for this upgrade.
  • Fits 2011-2014 Mustang GT Manual or Automatic and BOSS Mustangs.

To install the Driveshaft Shop One Piece Aluminum Driveshaft, you can take it to a qualified shop, or do it yourself as it is a straightforward fairly easy to do install. We chose to do the install ourselves at home in our garage. Here is a list of tools we used and the procedure to complete the install on our 2012 Mustang GT Automatic.

Tools Needed List:

  • Two low profile car ramps both same height, one for front and one for rear of vehicle.
  • One hydraulic low profile floor jack, four medium bottle jacks and 2 taller jack stands.
  • Tire chocks.
  • Torque wrench.
  • Breaker Bar 1/2 drive.
  • 12 mm 12 point socket 3/8 drive to remove transmission end flange bolts.
  • 8 mm bit socket 3/8 drive.
  • 7 mm bit socket 3/8 drive.
  • 10 mm socket.
  • 13 mm socket.
  • Various other sockets and wrenches to remove stock driveshaft and exhaust sections.
  • Rubber Mallet.
  • Blue Threadlocker (Medium strength).
  • Safety glasses.

DSS One Piece Aluminum Driveshaft Install Procedure:

  1. Drive vehicle up onto car ramps so front end is lifted up and block front tires with tire chocks if can.
  2. Using the hydraulic floor jack lift rear end of vehicle (lifting directly under rear end housing) sliding the other car ramps into place under the rear tires, now vehicle is lifted up and supported by ramps. Keep the floor jack in place under the rear end housing as will need to lift and lower rear slightly to loosen and tighten driveshaft bolts. We also put jack stands under the rear axle closest to the tires as can to give us some extra safety support. We still needed to lift our Mustang up a little higher to give more room to work, so we used the 4 bottle jacks positioned along the pass and driver side at front and rear jacking points to evenly lift car a tad higher when needed.
  3. Remove the passenger side part of exhaust at the clamps from just ahead of the factory H-Pipe (middle exhaust section) and the clamps joining the axle back to the middle exhaust section, then just move the exhaust over to one side, this will give you the room needed to get at all driveshaft bolts. No need to completely remove the exhaust from car.
  4. Next we removed the stock driveshaft. First remove the flange bolts on the pinion or rear of car, then remove the flange bolts from the transmission end of car. After those bolts have been removed, you then remove the middle section (bracket) of the driveshaft. There are 2 bolts holding middle section of the driveshaft to the bottom of car, you will need an extension to reach those 2 bolts and 2 spacers. Now you will need to pry or tap with your mallet the trans side flange of driveshaft to break it free. Be careful the stock driveshaft is heavy.Once the stock driveshaft is removed it’s time to install the DSS aluminum one piece driveshaft.
  5. First install the adapter onto the pinion side flange by lining up the holes, installing a few supplied short bolts just to hold in place, then tap in the supplied adapter evenly until seated using a rubber mallet.
  6. Now put in all bolts to hold in adapter and tighten them up. Then remove one bolt at a time and apply blue threadlocker, put bolts back in and tighten just snug. Do this to all the adapter bolts, then in a criss cross pattern torque all bolts to 57 ft-lbs. You will have to put key in ignition and turn to just accessories position, then put trans in neutral position and lift rear of car so tires can be turned by hand to rotate driveshaft to get at the bolts. When tightening bolts you will need to apply the parking brake, tighten bolts, then release parking brake when need to rotate drive shaft to reach other bolts.
  7. Now install the CV joint end of DSS driveshaft to adapter first, putting 2 of the longer bolts plus supplied washers in just to hold in place. Then on the trans side flange re-install 2 stock bolts just to hold in place. You may have to use some rope to tie up DSS driveshaft in the middle, this will help hold up the driveshaft while you put in the transmission end flange bolts.
  8. Now go back to the CV joint/pinion end and install all 6 bolts and supplied washers, tighten up snug, then remove one bolt at a time and apply blue thread locker, re-install bolts, then torque all bolts in a criss cross pattern to 57 ft-lbs.
  9. Now go to trans end flange and put in all 4 stock bolts just snug, then remove one bolt at a time and apply blue thread locker, then torque all 4 bolts in a criss cross pattern to 76 ft-lbs.
  10. Re-install your exhaust, torquing all clamp bolts to 40-45 ft-lbs. You have now completed the install.

All that is left to do, is just lower your 2011-2014 Mustang GT, then go test drive it and feel the difference your new DSS Aluminum One Piece Driveshaft gives your Mustang versus the old stock driveshaft, you will be pleased!

 

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2011-2014 Mustang GT Swarr Bar Support Brace Install

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If you drive a 2011-2014 Mustang GT and want better traction, faster 0-60 times and a stronger 8.8 rear end, the Swarr Bar Support Brace is for you. We installed the Swarr rear end support brace on our 2012 Mustang GT in about two hours and are very happy with this product. It did increase our traction resulting in faster 0-60 times, seemed to even help our 2012 Mustang GT with slightly better handling around corners. Of course the main thing about this support brace is to strengthen the factory ford 8.8 rear end, so the axle tubes will not twist nearly as easy under more horsepower and torque than what the car came with from the factory.

Before you start to install the Swarr Bar Support Brace here are the tools we needed to do the job.

Set of low profile car ramps.

9/16 wrench.

9/16 socket.

3/4 socket.

Ratchet.

Long Rachet/Breaker Bar.

Rubber Mallet.

Power Drill and Drill bit (Titanium).

Long round file (to file edges from drilled holes).

Vice Grips (pliers).

Goggles or face shield (wear when drilling to protect from metal shavings).

Silicon Spray.

Stiff Bristle Brush.

You first need to back your Mustang GT up onto a set of car ramps, just high enough to easily lay under the rear end area as you will need to drill 2 holes (one on each side) on drives shaft side of rear end housing. We started off by cleaning the 8.8 rear end of all loose material and dirt using a stiff bristle brush and then wiping all nice and clean especially where the Swarr Bar Support Brace clamps will be fastened too.

We then removed the 2 weights (one on each side of rear end) located on each inner end of rear end on the inside portion of lower control arm area. Each weight is about 2.5 lbs and is held in place with a single bolt, use a 3/4 inch socket to remove them. After you remove these bolts clean the bolt holes good as this is where each end of the Swarr Brace will attach to. You may have to bang the brace into place using a rubber mallet to line up the holes to put the bolts through. Then install those bolts but do not tighten. These bolts will now hold on the Swarr Bar Support Brace. To fit the bottom clam shells of the brace to the rear end axle tubes is a tight fit and you will most likely have to hit them into place using the rubber mallet so they are nice and snug against the axle tubes.

Next you will install the upper clam shells on the top side of the housing and bolt together with the bottom clam shells, leaving them loose for now. Now make sure the front bars are against the ears on the front pinion end of the rear housing, then drill your holes through the cast iron to mount the front section of the Swarr Bar Support Brace. You will need a 7/16 titanium drill bit to easily drill these two holes. After they are drilled clean up the edges with a long round file, put your bolts through and tighten just until the brace is touching the housing ears.

Now tighten all in this sequence. Start with the clam shell bolts, tighten evenly until the ears bend at least 1/8 inch, then tighten the two bolts nice and snug you drilled on the housing ears, then tighten nice and snug the two outer side bolts where the axle weights used to be. You have now completed the install of your Swarr Bar Support Brace for your 2011-2014 Mustang GT.

 

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2011-2014 Mustang GT Easy Horsepower Trick

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The 2011-2014 Mustang GT in stock form has an easy to fix flaw that will free up a few horsepower and is inexpensive to do. We have heard this problem happening to many 2011-2014 Mustang GT owners and it has happened off and on with our 2012 Mustang GT, so we found an easy solution that frees up some lost horsepower as well. Just about all Mustang GT owners experience the 5.0 motor cutting out, hesitating, or actually stalling in hot weather driving. The cause if all else is functioning properly, is your fuel is getting way too hot!

You know how hot it gets under the hood of your Mustang GT, it’s very hot. Now your fuel line comes up from the drivers side, then along the top side of the motor running straight behind your throttle body towards the middle of your motor to your injectors. This route for the fuel lines allows the fuel to get very hot and causes the cutting out, stalling, hesitation and of course loss of horsepower. We took a look at this problem and applied an old racers trick to protect the fuel lines better from the high heat. After we did this very simple easy procedure on our 2012 Mustang GT, it does not hesitate, cut out, or stall in hot weather driving and it is noticeably more powerful in hot weather driving versus before protecting those hot fuel lines.

To do this easy fuel line protection procedure on your 2011-2014 Mustang GT, start by removing your engine shock tower brace if you have one, then remove your engine cover by pulling it straight up. Now you will see your fuel line come up the back side of the motor on the drivers side, then along the top of your motor going just behind the throttle body towards the middle of the motor splitting into two sections, one for passenger side and one for drivers side fuel rail/injectors. You want to start at the drivers side back of the motor and cover the fuel lines as best you can with heat shielding material/tubing, do this all the way to the top of motor area where the fuel lines split into two. This will dramatically reduce the temperature of the fuel entering the motor and cooler fuel makes more power.

The heat shielding material can be purchased at most speed shops in a heat shield tubing type cover used for covering fuel lines, wires etc. Or you can just buy the basic plastic tubing to cover wires etc and then get some heat shield special tape and wrap those tubing covers yourself, then just cut the slit all the way down with an exacto knife or other, install around your fuel lines and your done. You would be amazed at the difference this procedure can make and of course it will help to further protect those important fuel lines. This is an easy to do worthwhile trick that all of you 2011-2014 Mustang GT owners can benefit from.

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2011-2014 Mustang GT Kooks Axle Back Exhaust Install

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Installing a Kooks Axle Back exhaust on your 2011-2014 Mustang GT is not too difficult and should take about two to three hours to complete. We chose to install the Kooks axle back on our 2012 Mustang GT, as we loved the nice deep tone they produce, without being to loud. The Kooks axle back is just a little louder than the stock ford axle back and the fact it is much lighter than the factory ford Mustang GT axle back system is a big plus. Dropping some weight off your 2011-2014 Mustang GT is always a good thing in our books, and of course a few extra ponies gained as well certainly cannot hurt.

We started our install by backing our 2012 Mustang GT up on a set of low profile car ramps and set the emergency brake, plus blocked the front wheels for added safety. Next we tied up the stock axle back on the drivers side and passenger side, so when all is ready to come off it will not fall. The stock axle back (muffler assembly) is on the heavy side and if fell could hurt you, so be very careful. Next we took a large flat head screwdriver and broke off the small welded on tabs that hold the ball clamps in place that attach the axle back to the mid pipe/cat back part of the exhaust. Once these were easily broken off, we took off the clamps attaching the axle back to the mid pipe/cat back part of the exhaust altogether and set them aside for re-use when installing the new Kooks axle back system. Then we removed all the bolts from the hanger brackets/rubber grommets that also hold the axle back in place. Once all bolts were removed from the brackets (did same for drivers and passengers side) the axle back assembly came down, luckily only a little, as remember we had tied up the front portion of the axle back, so as to not fall on top of us.

We then used some fine sandpaper to clean up the mid pipe/cat back attaching points for the new Kooks axle back system. We also cleaned up all bolt threads and put some anti-seize on the threads of the two ball clamp bolts to be re-used. We then removed the brackets/rubber grommets from the stock axle back assembly and installed it onto our new high performance Kooks axle back assembly. We then just put all back together in reverse order and lining up the exhaust tips perfectly so was even on both drivers side and passenger side (took a while to get them exactly the same). When all was lined up to our liking, we then tightened the ball clamps to 40 ft/lbs torque, or nice and tight is fine. It is so much easier to install the Kooks axle back then removing the stock axle back, as the Kooks assembly is smaller so more room, you can easily get to all bolts to tighten.

After all was installed we fired up the Mustang and let it idle for a while to possibly let the computer re-learn, as the axle back flows much better than the stock ford axle back. The Kooks axle back sounded just right, not to loud, but loud enough that others know this Mustang GT mean business. Now people look every time we drive by, as they hear our Mustang GT approaching.

Kooks Axle Back Pros:

– Very small gain in performance about 4-5 HP/Ft lbs torque and only seen if have a tune.

– Drops about 16 pounds of weight total (Kooks axle back weighs 29 lbs total versus stock ford at 45 lbs total)

– Very nice deep sounding tone, not to loud and sounds like a Mustang GT should.

If you want a deeper sounding exhaust sound that is not to loud, just a little louder than the stock Mustang GT , yet sounds much meaner and definitely more powerful sounding, the Kooks Axle Back exhaust for all 2011-2014 Mustang GT is for you!

Tools We Needed For Kooks Axle Back Install:

13 mm wrench

15 mm wrench

3/8 ratchet

3/8 extension

13 mm deep socket

15 mm socket

Large flat screwdriver

WD-40 or Silicon Spray

Car Ramps

Large Pliers

Silicon Spray

Safety Glasses

Rags

The tools needed may vary slightly from 2011-2012 Mustang GT and 2013-2014 Mustang GT.

 

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2011-2014 Mustang GT Easy Brake Upgrade

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Some people find the 2011-2014 Mustang GT stock brakes to be adequate for their daily driving needs, but some of you want better than stock braking. If your Mustang GT has the optional Brembo Brakes, you can still upgrade them to work even better with a few simple excellent upgrades.

If the stock 2011-2014 Mustang brakes are just not good enough for you and want an easy brake upgrade that will make your Mustang stop on a dime, all you need to do is upgrade your brake pads and brake rotors with direct replacement high performance pieces. This is exactly what we did to our 2012 Mustang GT as we were not all that happy with the stock braking setup.

The first step to having better brakes for your Mustang GT, is to switch out your stock Mustang GT brake pads for better brake pads. You could simply just do this upgrade alone and have better than stock braking, or you can add another easy braking upgrade along with this as performance rotors, which will even more so enhance your stopping power. This next upgrade is to add four better than stock high performance brake rotors. Just switching from stock brake pads to performance brake pads is OK, but those brake pads need something better than your stock rotors to grab onto, which will assist greatly to bring your Mustang GT to a stop much faster.

There are a few direct replacement brake kits that give you new performance brake pads and rotors, such as kits by Power Stop, Hawk Performance, Ford Racing, Roush, Baer etc. Buying a kit will usually be more expensive than just buying upgraded performance brake pads and 4 new performance brake rotors separately. For our own 2012 Mustang GT we put on 4 new (front and rear) performance brake rotors DBA X-Gold Series Cross Drilled/Slotted Rotors. These rotors are true high quality and built to last. Along with these rotors we tried a few different performance brake pads such as Hawk Performance HPS Brake Pads, Hawk Performance Ceramic Brake Pads, Stop Tech Pads, but due to a few issues we did not like about these pads (too much brake dust or too much brake squeal/noise) we decided to go back and use new stock Mustang GT brake pads from Ford, as these pads were in our opinion all around just better for street use. The stock brake pads worked great along with the DBA X-Gold Series Cross Drilled/Slotted Rotors, made the car feel like we had race brakes, gave a huge improvement over the stock braking setup.

Our 2012 Mustang Easy Brake Upgrade List:

1- Added 4 new DBA X-Gold Series Cross Drilled/Slotted Rotors (American Muscle).

2- Added 4 new stock replacement Mustang GT brake pads (Ford).

3- Added 4 new stock direct replacement Mustang GT brake lines (Ford).

The main improvement in this braking upgrade was of course the DBA X-Gold Series Cross Drilled/Slotted Rotors which gave our Mustang GT about a 20% better braking performance. These rotors give a bigger initial bit to bring you to a stop much faster and they also have a special design which improves heat dissipation, meaning less brake fade.

If you are driving your Mustang GT at the track, you will want to use different brake pads than the stock ones such as a ceramic pad. These will usually make more noise as we found out, but they do stop harder with less fade. This upgrade we feel is best left to track only, it could get annoying in daily driving, but of course that is up to you to decide for yourself.

While the stock 2011-2014 Mustang GT brakes are ok, doing this very easy brake upgrade for your Mustang GT only takes a few hours and is well worth the effort, we think you will find this brake upgrade a good solid beneficial improvement for your Mustang GT.

 

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2011-2014 Mustang GT Low Profile Car Ramps

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Need a set of low profile car ramps for your 2011-2014 Mustang GT but cannot find a decent set, then build your own low profile car ramps. Building your own low profile car ramps is actually cheaper and in my opinion safer to use than store bought plastic or steel ramps. I have tried three different sets of car ramps for my 2012 Mustang GT and all of them had issues ranging from hard to use, approach angle was not low enough for my Mustang as is lowered etc. All of these ramps were not really designed for a Mustang GT, Shelby GT500 and so on, just universal ramps which is not good enough, so I designed a few low profile car ramps that will work with our Mustangs.

These ramps were all built out of regular lumber and then cut to spec and screwed together. Not only does this cost far less to build these ramps than store bought low profile ramps, they are in my opinion stronger and much safer. I will show you two basic build plans for good low profile car ramps, you then can add a few options if you wish to improve them a little more, such as cutting the approach edges to a 45-35 degree angle to make it smoother to drive on, this of course is not necessary to do as will work just fine as is.

Low Profile Ramps For Mustang (Style 1) Need:

  • Use 2 x 10 wood planks
  • Wood screws or nails

Cut wood planks as follows:

  • Cut two pieces 46 inches long
  • Cut two pieces 32 inches long
  • Cut two pieces 18 inches long

Now screw or nail the wood planks together (on top of each other lining up the back edges) The 46 inch plank is the bottom, then put the 32 inch plank on top of the 46 inch plank, then put the 18 inch plank on top of the 32 inch plank. This style of car ramp will lift car a maximum of four and one half inches (41/2”)

Low Profile Ramps For Mustang (Style 2) Need:

  • Use 2 x 10 wood planks
  • Wood screws or nails

Cut wood planks as follows:

  • Cut two pieces 40 inches long
  • Cut two pieces 30 inches long
  • Cut two pieces 20 inches long

Now screw or nail the wood planks together (on top of each other lining the back edges) The 50 inch plank is the bottom, then put the 40 inch plank on top of the 50 inch plank, then put the 30 inch plank on top of the 40 inch plank, then put the 20 inch plank on top of the 30 inch plank. This style of car ramp will lift car a maximum of six inches (6”)

These homemade style low profile car ramps will work great for your Mustang GT, Shelby GT500 etc for oil changes and so on. They are very strong and cheap to make. If you want to you could add a wheel stop on the top portion of your ramps. You could also cut the approach edges of the planks to a 45 degree angle (not really necessary) or add a small piece of wood to the front part of ramps where each piece sites on top of another pieces to act like a 45 degree angle cut. I find the ramps work just fine without adding any cut angles to assist driving upon to easier, but the choice is yours.

After searching for store bought low profile ramps which were of good quality as have been through a few sets of cheap ramps, I decided that just making my own set of low profile ramps will work best for my Mustang GT and only cost me a fraction of the cost versus good store bought low profile ramps. If you are having an issue finding good low profile ramps for your Mustang, try making a set of your own I think you will like them much better.

 

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