2011-2014 Mustang BBK 85mm Throttle Body Test

Can your 2011-2014 Mustang GT really benefit from a direct replacement BBK 85mm Throttle Body Upgrade? The answer is yes and no. It seems to depend on a few situations as if, is your Mustang stock, or does it have some horsepower increasing mods. We decided to give the BBK 85mm throttle body a try. We bolted it on our own 2012 Mustang GT and also tried it on our neighbours 2011 Mustang GT to see what actual benefits we could obtain from two different setups. The 2011 Mustang GT was totally stock right down to the tires and had an automatic transmission. Our 2012 Mustang GT was mildly modified sporting a tune and CAI (cold Air Intake) with some suspension and wheel/tire upgrades and also has a 6 speed automatic transmission.

Since the 2011 Mustang GT was totally stock, we decided to start with that set up first. The procedure for removing the stock Ford 80mm throttle body and replacing it with the BBK 85mm throttle body is very easy and straight forward, so I will not go through the actual install steps, really only took us 20 minutes to do. The BBK throttle body went on without any issues and the car started right up nice and easy, idled smooth. The coyote 5.0 motor seem to idle about the same as the stock throttle body and after was totally warmed up, we noticed the idle was holding a tad higher than with the stock throttle body.

Taking the 2011 Mustang out for a test drive we noticed the throttle was a little more responsive feeling and this seemed to carry through at any speed. Stomping the Mustang off the line felt no different than before with stock throttle body in place. Hitting the go pedal at 30-40 mph was also no different feeling than with the stock throttle body. We parked the 2011 Mustang and removed the BBK 85mm Throttle body and put the stock throttle body back on, we had our results.

It was now time to try the BBK 85mm throttle body on the 2012 Mustang GT. We removed the stock throttle body and replaced with the BBK unit, all went on easy and smooth, no issues. When all was ready to go we started up the Mustang and let it warm up for a bit. The idle during warm up was same as usual and after warmed up we again noticed the idle was just a tad higher than before running the stock Ford 80mm throttle body. We also noticed the car when revved sounded a bit more powerful, or heavier air sucking kinda sound. It was time to take it out on the road and see how it felt. At a set of lights (no other vehicles around) we stomped on it off the line (we did this a few times) and both of us noticed it had a little more low end torque than before (tires spun more than before, usually just spin a little then hook). We know this as have tested the 2012 Mustang GT plenty of times before in this same spot, even same lane. We floored it from a variety of different speeds and all seem to pull just a little harder than with the stock throttle body. The throttle response also seemed a tad more responsive though the whole rpm range. Our conclusion was we definitely felt a small gain in acceleration, versus not feeling any gains in acceleration with the BBK 85mm throttle body mounted on the stock 2011 Mustang GT.

On a pure stock 2011-2014 Mustang GT there will most likely not really be any benefit as in acceleration gains, just a more responsive throttle feel, which is great if you hate the flat feeling of the stock Ford throttle body. We feel if you are going to replace your stock throttle body so it’s all new again, then why not replace it with the BBK 85mm unit, it’s a small upgrade over stock (no tune is required) and will ready to go if you add power mods in the future. However, if you already have, or are going to have a tune and a cold air intake put on as was on the 2012 Mustang GT (Race Tune and Air Raid Race Cold Air Intake), we feel the upgrade to the BBK 85mm throttle body is definitely a worthy upgrade, felt like about a solid 10-12 hp gain most likely due to having a tune in the car, which seems to work well together.

BBK 85mm Throttle Body 2011 Mustang GT (Stock) Test Results:

  • Idled a little higher than stock and was smooth.
  • Throttle felt a little more responsive than with stock throttle body.
  • No gains in acceleration were noticed over stock, yet sounded slightly more powerful.

BBK 85mmThrottle Body 2012 Mustang GT (Mildly Modified) Test Results:

  • Idled a little higher than with stock throttle body and was smooth.
  • Throttle felt more responsive.
  • Definitely noticed gains in acceleration and sounded slightly more powerful.

 

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2012 Mustang GT Ford Racing SVT Cooling Fan Install

All 2011-2014 Mustang GT owners can easily upgrade their stock factory cooling fan, by replacing it with a Ford Racing Performance SVT Cooling Fan. The Ford Racing cooling fan is a stock cooling fan used on the 2013 and 2014 662 horsepower Mustang Shelby GT500. The Ford Racing SVT cooling fan is a direct replacement for your stock 2011-2014 Mustang GT cooling fan. It will help your Mustang GT keep it’s cool under pressure due to added cooling capacity.

The Ford Racing SVT cooling fan flows more air, has a higher cfm air flow versus the stock Mustang GT cooling fan. It is also a bit quieter and is a better balanced unit than the stock Mustang GT cooling fan assembly.

Ford Racing SVT Cooling Fan

  • Genuine Ford Racing Part PN (M-8C607-MSVT).
  • Fits 2005-2014 Mustang GT, Bullit, Boss and GT500.
  • Direct bolt in easy cooling upgrade for all Mustang GT 2011-2014.
  • Ford Racing cooling fan has 7 blades versus stock Mustang GT with only 6 blades.
  • Ford Racing fan is balanced better than Mustang GT stock cooling fan.
  • Uses only 2 bolts to fasten versus 3 bolts on 2011-2014 Mustang GT.

To install a Ford Racing SVT Performance Cooling Fan is not that difficult and only requires basic tools for the job. Install time will vary, but usually takes most people about 1-2 hours. You will have increased radiator cooling and will also help cool your automatic transmission oil cooler better than your stock set up.

We installed the Ford Racing Cooling Fan Assembly on our 2012 Mustang GT, here is the basic install guide to help you along.

  1. Disconnect battery negative terminal
  2. Remove front strut tower brace that goes across your engine to each of your strut mounting bolts (if you have this brace on your Mustang).
  3. Remove plastic top of engine cover by lifting up on front and rear of cover.
  4. Remove the large plastic cover on top front of radiator area. To remove this cover, you must remove the special fasteners by lifting up on the middle area of the fastener with a small flat head screwdriver, then pull the fastener out.
  5. Remove your factory or aftermarket cold air box (air cleaner assembly) and ducting from the throttle body to the drivers side radiator area. You will have to also remove the mass air flow connector by gently pulling out the red clip then pull connector apart to remove.
  6. Remove your radiator plastic coolant reservoir tank located on top of radiator area passenger side. You will have to remove 2 bolts and the end of the long hose attached to the drivers side of the radiator, (coolant will come out be ready) so you can move the tank over to the engine and set it down out of the way.
  7. Now disconnect your stock cooling fan. The electrical connector is located on the passenger side of the radiator. To remove push in the tab and pull connector apart.
  8. Next, remove the 3 cooling fan mounting bolts that hold your stock cooling fan assembly in place. There is one bolt to remove on the drivers side top area and two bolts to remove on the passengers side area, one high and one lower down. After the bolts have been removed, just pull fan assembly straight up and out. You may have to wiggle it around to come out, but just pull straight up as fan assembly at the bottom is in slots on each side to hold it in place.
  9. Now install your new Ford Racing cooling fan and remember you will only be using the two top bolts to mount the fan in place. Make sure the bottom area of fan is in the slots to hold it in place first before bolting it in. Put all back together, start vehicle and let it warm up. The new cooling fan should kick in when temperature gauge reaches about half way and keep it there or a little less. Your Done!

 

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2011-2014 Mustang GT Easy Engine Cooling Upgrades

In stock form your 2011-2014 Mustang GT cooling system will be fine, add more power, the need for better engine cooling increases. You have to remember, Ford designed your Mustang GT cooling system to work with your stock set up. Now if you add mods to increase your vehicles horsepower more than what it produced in stock form, you need to increase your Mustangs cooling ability to work along with your now more than stock power output.

There are a few ways to increase your Mustang GT cooling capability, some are harder, some are easier to do and some are more expensive than others to do. We will just focus on the more popular less expensive ways to achieve better engine cooling for your 2011-2014 Mustang GT.

Let’s start with the most improved better engine cooling aftermarket modification first. This would be recommended for all who add steep rear end gears, headers, superchargers, high stall torque converters, or if you are tracking your Mustang etc. Adding these types of performance mods will put a strain on your Mustang GT, pushing up the operating temperatures higher than stock. This is when an Aluminum direct bolt in performance radiator is greatly needed. With an Aluminum radiator such as one from Ford Racing you will cool your Mustang GT down, as it will give increased cooling over your stock radiator setup. The Ford Racing radiator is actually twice as thick as the stock one, and holds quite a bit more coolant. This is the exact radiator Ford uses in their FR500S and Boss 302S race cars, so you know it’s good!

Another good way to help get your Mustang running nice and cool, is to add a Ford Racing SVT Performance Cooling Fan separately, or along with an Aluminum radiator. If just running a cold air intake along with tune and possibly a steeper rear end gearing, all you may need is to add the performance cooling fan upgrade, which by the way is a direct bolt in for 2011-2014 Mustang GT. This SVT cooling fan is for stock 2013-2014 Mustang GT500 with 662 horsepower and this performance fan moves a lot more air than your factory GT Mustang, it’s also quieter and smoother running.

Next in line for adding to your 2011-2014 GT Mustang cooling upgrade, is to simply change your front chin spoiler to a better one that allows more air flow to your radiator. Some aftermarket chin spoilers are designed to improve the front end look of your Mustang, while at the same time improving the air flow to the radiator. We put on a CDC Chin Spoiler on our 2012 Mustang GT, looks meaner, cools better, which is awesome in our books. This cooling upgrade would work along nicely with either an Aluminum radiator upgrade, or the Ford Racing cooling fan upgrade, or both for full maximum engine cooling benefit.

Before rushing into any cooling upgrade make sure your stock cooling system is in good working order, as low coolant levels, radiator blockage, or improperly working cooling fan will make your Mustang GT run hotter than normal.

If you were only to upgrade one part to help your Mustang GT run Cooler, go with the Ford Racing SVT Performance Cooling Fan. It is low in cost, easiest to install and will give your Mustang GT a cooler running engine temp and if your Mustang has an automatic transmission, the higher air flow will also help your trans cooler keep your tranny fluid cooler as well.

Ford Racing SVT Performance Cooling Fan

Ford Racing SVT Performance Cooling Fan

 

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Mustang GT Wheel Hop Fix

All 2011-2014 Mustang GT are prone to the dreaded wheel hop problem, but no worries you can easily fix this common problem. If you have ever experienced wheel hop when stomping the gas in your Mustang GT from a dead stop, or even a roll in your Mustang, then you know it can feel as though the whole rear end is about to fall out. The degree of wheel hop each Mustang GT will vary, as it depends on what gearing you have in your rear end, how tight your rear suspension is, also if the car is stock or has been modified for more horsepower, even if it is an automatic or manual transmission will make a difference.

If you read on how others are dealing with wheel hop and what they say to get rid of it, most just say do one thing, or to just change your driving methods, which usually is not going to help fix your problem. You actually must do a combination of things to fix the wheel hop problem, usually doing just one thing will not fix the problem for most Mustangs. We will focus on what a stock 2011-2014 Mustang GT or a mildly modified 2011-2014 Mustang GT will usually need to do to control rear end wheel hop. There are other fixes, but these are the easiest and most common fixes, that will fix the problem for most all Mustang GT on the street.

You will need to replace some of your Mustangs stock parts with these upgraded more high performance designed parts. These are easy to replace pieces that most can do in their own driveway.

Mustang GT Rear Lower Control Arms:

By adding a set of aftermarket lower control arms from such companies as BMR, J&M, Steeda, SR Performance, Whiteline and other aftermarket sources, your Mustang GT will greatly benefit, as these parts will provide better traction, less wheel hop, quicker launches which will result in better 60ft times. These lower control arms are a direct replacement and much stronger than your stock Mustang GT control arms. They also come with much better polyurethane bushings versus the stock control arms which have much softer rubber bushings.

Mustang GT Rear PanHard Bar:

An aftermarket PanHard Bar is also available from such companies as BMR, J&M, Steeda, SR Performance and Whiteline. These parts will also come with polyurethane bushings and is much stronger than the stock panhard bar. The stock factory panhard bar has a lot of unwanted flex and twist, so by replacing it with a direct replacement much better aftermarket panhard bar, your Mustang GT rear end will be kept in the optimum position which dramatically lessens wheel hop and also improves traction, cornering and overall handling performance.

Mustang GT Rear Shocks:

By replacing your Mustang GT factory stock rear shocks with a set of aftermarket direct replacement shocks as Koni yellow adjustable twin tube gas pressure design, you will reduce wheel hop and will also improve your Mustangs handling and braking. These are great shocks that allow you to adjust the firmness, from firm to very firm like a race car feel. If you just want to help control wheel hop, you can just replace the rear shocks alone, but most will replace the front struts and rear shocks at the same time, as we did on our 2012 Mustang GT, but that is your choice.

We replaced our stock pieces with these exact aftermarket pieces on our 2012 Mustang GT (BMR Lower Control Arms, BMR PanHard Bar and Koni Yellow Adjustable Front Struts And Koni Yellow Adjustable Rear Shocks). Our Mustang GT sports a mild boost in horsepower over stock and the combination of these performance parts working together resulted in eliminating all wheel hop our Mustang GT had. Actually the combination of these parts made our 2012 Mustang GT feel like a totally different car to drive. Once you feel the difference these aftermarket parts will make, it is like a night and day difference.

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Mickey Thompson Street Comp Tires On Mustang GT

Thinking about running Mickey Thompson Street Comp Tires on your Mustang GT or other performance car, read our review and street testing first. First off, the new Mickey Thompson Street Comp Tires do come in a good range of sizes for 18 inch, 19 inch and 20 inch wheels. We decided to test out a set of 255/40-19 for the front wheels and 285/35-19 Mickey Thompson Street Comp Tires for the rear wheels on our 2012 Mustang GT. Switching to these tires from our stock Pirelli Tires, we noticed the Mickey Thompson tires nicely filled out the wheel wells as they are wider than stock, which gave our Race Red Mustang GT a meaner looking stance along with our new 2010 Mustang Shelby GT500 chromed wheels.

When you first put the tires on they do have a coating on them that will make the tires slip very easy for a short while, you need to wear off this coating by general driving, or do as we did, a couple of good burn outs and all coating was removed. With all of the tire coating removed we could now feel how much more sticky and responsive they are when compared to our stock tires. With our Mustang GT Automatic pushing about 450 horsepower launching hard from a dead stop was much better than our stock tires. The Mickey Thompson tires spin about half as much as the stock tires, then hooked, then when shifting into second just spun the tire a little versus a lot when we had on our stock tires. These Street Comp tires are not quite as sticky as a drag radial tire, but not to far off which in our opinion is a good thing if not upgrading your stock 8.8 rear end axles. If you are running a hard biting (very sticky) drag radial, it will do some damage to your axles much sooner than a tire that allows a good amount of slip, which does not jolt your axles so hard off the line, which can lead to twisted or broken axles. For most street driven Mustangs these tires will be most satisfactory, they have good traction off the line and they do handle the corners very well.

When we installed our yellow Koni adjustable front struts and rear shocks along with our new Mickey Thompson Street Comp Tires (tires set at 36 psi), our Mustang GT has now transformed into a race car feel, handling the corners, hard braking and accelerating like a beast! Do we recommend running the Mickey Thompson Street Comps? You bet we do!

Mickey Thompson Street Comp Tires Pros

1- Quality tire with reasonable cost.

2- Sticky responsive predictable tire, improves braking, cornering, traction.

3- Will lower 0-60 times when switching from stock tires.

4- Good looking tire with low road noise.

There is one small downside we found to running these Mickey Thompson Street Comp tires. They definitely are a warm weather tire. Even on a slightly cold fall type weather day, these tires do lose their grip, so is definitely a warm weather only tire. Other than this small detail, we do highly recommend the new Mickey Thompson Street Comp Tires as they do behave as good as they look.

Mickey Thompson Street Comp Tires

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2011-2014 Mustang GT Performance And Handling Mods

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2011-2014 Mustang GT Performance And Handling Mods

Right from the factory the 2011-2014 Mustang GT is a darn good all round performance car, but as with all GT Mustangs there is room to improve performance. Now it all depends on what you want to improve, just a little or a lot. Most Mustang GT owners only want a few mods to improve the cars performance and handling, so that is what we will go over in this article.

Let’s start with your best and basic performance improvement modifications. The best over-all performance improvement that is easy to do, safe and cost effective is to get a tune and if want a little more power than just a tune alone, get a cold air intake and tune combo. You can expect about a 30-38 horsepower increase with a cold air system and tune combo. We like the tunes from Bama, American Muscle, but there are others places you can also get tunes from, the choice is up to you.

The cold air intake and tune combo gives your Mustang GT a very nice bump in power. If you get yours from American Muscle they will give you 3 tunes you can choose to run, street tune, performance tune and race tune, all tuned along with your cold air intake. Your Mustang GT will have better drivability, better fuel economy, and much more get up and go.

Now after a little more power is added most Mustang owners want their car to handling a little better. To improve your Mustangs handling there are many upgrades you can choose to do as, front and rear sway bar kits, control arms, lowering springs, wheels and tires, pan hard bars, struts and shocks, strut tower brace, frame connectors and so on. So where do you begin and what is your best bang for your dollar in obtaining better handling for your 2011-2014 Mustang GT? Certain handling upgrades can also help in other areas as well such as traction or off line launch, reducing wheel hop which is an issue with 2011-2014 Mustang GT. If you are wanting a different look for your Mustang GT, then start with a wheel and tire upgrade. If not wanting a wheel and tire upgrade and want to stay with stock, then suggest you start with a set of rear lower controls. Upgrading to better rear lower control arms will improve your cars handling and traction, reducing wheel hop and improving the over-all feel of the car. If want more improvements suggest an engine strut tower brace. If already have a strut tower brace on car from factory skip this upgrade and move on to the next.

Generally the next step most Mustang GT owners do is a lowering spring kit and front and rear sway bar kit, which will greatly improve your Mustangs over-all handling, but is costly. We find you can get similar over-all handing improvements by just upgrading your front struts and rear shocks, this is especially good for those who do not want to lower their Mustang with lowering springs. Using the Koni yellow race adjustable struts and shocks you can easily change your Mustang GT from stock handling to race car like handling in seconds. These struts and shocks can be easily adjusted from firm to real firm is a few seconds, this allows you to set your Mustangs handling front and rear as you like it. Not only will these struts and shocks make your Mustang GT handle like a race car as they did on my own 2012 Mustang GT, they will improve braking and traction as well. We highly recommend this upgrade, it is worthwhile and very cost effective.

 

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2011-2014 Mustang GT Exhaust Guide

Many of you own a 2011-2014 Mustang GT and want a guide to better understand the stock exhaust system components. Starting from the Mustang GT engine, we first have the factory headers, also called exhaust manifolds which are a Tri-Y or also known as a 4-1 header design. This type of header design is very good as this type of setup offers superior low end performance because of the 3 collectors in a Tri-Y design that optimize scavenging at both high and low RPM and not just one RPM range like you see in a typical 4-1 header design. So right from the factory Ford gave these Mustangs a very respectable factory header.

Next in line in the Mustang GT exhaust system, we have the Mid Pipes which also contain the catalytic converters. All 2011-2014 GT Mustangs come stock with a mid-pipe that has an H-formation or what we call an H-Pipe. An H-Pipe is generally more so to help with a little more low end torque versus no H-pipe at all. Then next in line in the exhaust system we have what is called the Cat-Back which bolts on behind the catalytic converters. The Cat-Back assembly also consists of the mufflers and the tailpipes which is the final destination of the exhaust gases from your engine. If you remove the section of the Cat-Back exhaust assembly that contains the mufflers, this part is called the Axle-Back part of the exhaust system. So the Cat-Back assembly also contains the Axle-Back portion of the exhaust system, so can be replaced by a complete Cat-Back assembly or if just wanting to replace the mufflers, you can just replace the Axle-Back portion of the Cat-Back assembly.

So you now know the 2011-2014 Mustang GT stock exhaust system is broken in to sections as Headers (exhaust manifold), Mid-Pipes, then Cat-Back section which also consists of the Axle-Back portion of the exhaust system. In stock form this factory exhaust really does a good over-all job, but many Mustang GT owners would either like to add more power or just a better sounding exhaust sound than you get from the factory. Adding more power by changing the exhaust manifolds and or you Mustang GT Cat-Back to an aftermarket set-up, will in most cases require a tune to bring it all together to work correctly, but just changing the Axle-Back part of the system which is very popular to do, will not usually require a tune and is more to do with easily changing your Mustang GT exhaust sound.

Most Mustang GT owners will focus on the Axle-Back part of the exhaust system first, as it is the area that most Mustang GT owners want to change to get a more performance oriented exhaust sound and some Axle-Backs can even add a little more power and even drop some weight of the vehicle as well. Mustang performance places such as American Muscle have many Axle-Back systems to choose from and some sound videos as well so you can hear what they sound like. If you like your Mustang GT basically in stock format but would like a more performance sounding exhaust, an Axle-Back is your easiest route and is generally very easy to install.

You now should have a much better idea what your stock 2011-2014 Mustang GT exhaust system consists of.

 

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2012 Mustang GT Radiator Coolant Change

2012 Mustang GT radiator coolant change is easy if you know what to do. This procedure should be the same for all 2011- 2014 Mustang GT. If you are going to just do a partial drain and fill (just drain radiator and coolant reservoir tank) you will need one jug of Ford orange specialty radiator coolant for 2011- 2014 Mustang GT and one jug of distilled water, use only a 50/50 mix. If going to drain and fill the whole system, you will need 13 Quarts or 12.3L of the orange specialty coolant and again mix it with only a 50/50 mix of coolant and distilled water. Do not rush this job, take your time as mistakes can be very messy.

Steps To Partially Drain The Radiator Coolant:

If draining complete system, just remove bottom radiator hose, start engine over for a second or two most all fluid will drain out. This is the fastest way to do it, but it is messy, or can follow drain procedure in Ford repair manual)

1-Jack up front of vehicle just enough so can easily get to underneath radiator area.

2-Remove plastic covering under radiator area (about 10 screws), to allow easy access to radiator drain petcock.

3-Attach a rubber hose to petcock nipple located on bottom of radiator passenger side of the Mustang, to easily direct the draining coolant into a pan or bucket.

4-Remove radiator coolant reservoir tank cap, then open radiator petcock. Petcock should be easily to open by just turning it by hand, do not use any tools to turn it unless absolutely necessary, it breaks easily! Open the petcock a few turns to allow the radiator fluid to start drain into your pan until stops draining. This will have completely drained the radiator and coolant reservoir tank. If desire to drain out more fluid, just start engine for a second and more coolant to continue to drain.

Steps To Fill System With Radiator Coolant:

1-Close radiator petcock, just tighten up good by hand only, do not tighten using any tools as is not needed, petcock seals easily by an o-ring. If petcock ever leaks, you need to replace the rubber o-ring. Make sure if removed any radiator hoses to put back on securely.

2- Pour your 50/50 mix of coolant and distilled water into the coolant reservoir tank until fills just below the top fill area. Start the vehicle with coolant reservoir tank lid off and turn your heater on full. As vehicle is running, watch the coolant tank level and add some coolant as it goes down. When coolant does not go down anymore, put the coolant reservoir tank lid back on and continue letting the vehicle warm up until top radiator hose is warm/hot, which means the thermostat is now open and coolant is circulating. Let run for a while, coolant level should go down once again. Turn vehicle off and let the coolant get cool enough, so can safely remove coolant reservoir tank cap to add more coolant to top fill line.

3-Gently squeeze the top and bottom radiator hoses to burp out trapped air in system. Coolant may go down again, so fill again to fill line. Do this hose squeezing procedure a few times until coolant level does not go down, then put coolant reservoir tank cap back on.

4-Now you need to go and drive your Mustang for about 15 minutes or so, to circulate the coolant through system which will most likely cause the coolant level in reservoir tank to drop again. When done driving, let all coolant cool down until safely can remove reservoir tank cap, add more coolant if need to bottom fill line or little over. You may have to do this procedure a few times, as when the coolant completely cools, I noticed I had to add more coolant to completely fill system.

Take note of how much coolant was drained out, as the same amount of coolant should have been added back into the system. If you take your and work steadily, this radiator coolant change on 2011- 2014 Mustang GT should take you about 1-2 hours.

 

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How To Make Your Jeep Wrangler Handle Better On Road

Jeep Wranglers are not the best handling vehicles, but there are a few things that can you can do to improve the over-all handling of your jeep. Some people like to keep their Jeep Wranglers in totally stock form and others like to add things such as lifts, wheels, bigger tires and so on. The way you chose to keep your wrangler is up to you, but if you feel you want a little safer better handling jeep, I will guide you through a few things you can do that will make your Jeep Wrangler a much better handling on-road vehicle.

Most people who modify a Jeep Wrangler start with putting on a lift kit, aftermarket wheels and larger tires. They like to lift the jeep up higher for better looks, better off-road driving and so on. What some people do not realize is the higher you lift your Jeep Wrangler the easier it may tip over while driving. If driven in a manner which is not normal, your jeep can roll-over very easily.

To improve your Jeep Wrangler handling characteristics and to lessen the chance of having your Jeep wrangler roll-over, I have put a list of things you may want to consider.

  • Do not lift your jeep wrangler over three inches max over stock. The higher you lift, the easier you can roll-over.
  • Put on aftermarket wheels that have less backspacing than the stock wheels. This will make your wheels stick out farther, which adds more front and rear tracking, which ads stability when cornering and lees likely to roll over.
  • Along with your wheels with less backspacing the wheels section width should be a little wider than stock wheels, which will allow you to run a little wider tires which will add to better handling, better braking and stability.
  • Your new tire up-grade over stock should be a better handing on-road tire. You may even want to go with a tire with less side wall to increase handling and tire squirm. An example of this up-grade would be going to 17 inch tires and wheels from your stock 16 inch tires and wheels. The less tire squirm along with putting more rubber to the pavement will only benefit your Jeep Wranglers over-all handling.
  • You can run wheel spacers to mimic putting on aftermarket wheels with less backspacing. Wheel spacers can be used along with your stock wheels or aftermarket wheels to increase your jeeps tracking (wider stance) Wheel spacers can come in 1.25 inch, 1.50 inch and 1.75 inch widths, just choose what is right for you. Always make sure to buy premium wheel spacers and must be hub centric for safety reasons.
  • Another handling improvement that you can do is add larger anti-sway bars which will keep your jeep more up right ( corner with less body lean) and not lean as much when cornering. Less lean does not transfer as much weight to one side, which can lessen a roll-over. Also you could use along with new sway bars or as a stand-alone improvement, by adding polyurethane sway bar and end link bushings. Stiffer sway bar and end link bushings will allow faster steering input over stock rubber bushings and help a little when cornering to have a little less lean over stock set up.
  • Other thing to consider when handling is concerned is your tire pressure. Make sure to run all 4 tires at the specified tire pressure, as running low pressure in your tires will affect your Jeeps handling in a negative manner.
  • You can switch from stock hydraulic shocks to gas shocks which will improve your jeeps handling by helping to keep the jeep from leaning in turns and to keep the wheels contacting the road better when on uneven pavement.

There you go, you now have some ideas to help your Jeep Wrangler improve its on-road manners and be less likely to roll-over. Remember, jeeps are jeeps, they are not cars and should be driven in a slower more cautious manner.

 

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2014 Jeep Wrangler Review

The 2014 Jeep Wrangler is a great all around versatile vehicle that is truly at its best when the pavement ends and the rough stuff begins. This versatile SUV with its standard four wheel drive and generous ground clearance, will climb over rocks, cross shallow streams and take control on just about any off road venture. Just don’t expect the usual amounts of comforts you may be used to.

Being a person who loves and owns a Jeep Wrangler is a person who usually loves the outdoors, the wilderness, off-roading, or just the freedom of the open air. Although the new 2014 Jeep Wrangler is the most civilized wrangler yet, it is still a little noisy and rough riding and nothing at all like the midsize crossover SUVs in the same price range. If your perfect weekend plans include a little off-roading, this Jeep Wrangler is most capable and also is among the most versatile. You can you choose a Wrangler with either two doors or four doors, you can still remove the roof, doors and even the windshield if you want to.

I would recommend the soft top version over the hardtop if you plan to drive your Wrangler with the roof off/down on a regular basis, the only drawback is it makes your Jeep more vulnerable to thieves and does require considerable time and patience to remove and reinstall it. On road the 2014 Jeep Wranglers Braking distances are still a little long and handling on road is not as good as other SUVs you might be considering, but the fun factor makes up for this. You could improve the handling by upgrading to better on road tires and high psi gas shocks. Driving around the city in traffic, the Wranglers short wheelbase makes it very easy to maneuver in tight spaces and parking is a breeze.

The Jeep Wranglers V6 285 horsepower engine provides more than sufficient power for most peoples driving situations. Once you drive the 2014 Jeep Wrangler for a few weeks you may not want to drive anything else but a Jeep. We found out as we tested the Jeep, people are drawn to Wrangler’s care free cool factor, getting smiles and waves from other drivers. Only had this type of experience when driving my vette, so there is just something about a Jeep with the roof off that attracts.

2014 Jeep Wrangler

2014 Jeep Wrangler

2014 Jeep Wrangler Pros: Definitely has far superior off-road capability. Comes in two and four door versions. Has a huge aftermarket parts availability to truly make it your own. Very fun SUV to drive around the city.

2014 Jeep Wrangler Cons: The soft top is hard to remove and creates possible security issues. As usual, has a noisy cabin, rough riding, long braking distances, no locking hood, slow steering response.

 

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